tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-48391908473386412802024-02-21T03:31:49.816-08:00Linen and LiningHi, I'm Eloise and welcome to my blog recording my discoveries in historical sewing. I have sewn for over 30 years for myself and my children, with varying levels of success. The gorgeous textiles of historical literature and film have always captured my imagination, and in 2017 I decided to dive in and educate myself both in the history of fashion, as well as in the finer aspects of sewing, mostly by hand. I hope you find some enjoyment in reading the details of this education!Eloise Faithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16298695662174061689noreply@blogger.comBlogger24125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4839190847338641280.post-29528029416391544182019-05-09T17:07:00.001-07:002019-05-09T17:07:13.338-07:001875 Black Victorian CorsetIsn't she gorgeous?? I can't get over how beautiful the corsets of the mid-late Victorian era are. They have such amazing flossing, laces and trim. The craftsmanship of the stitching, albeit with machines at this stage, just delights me. And as usual, this admiration creates a desire to own a pair myself, and the experience the ins and outs of the actual making of one.<br />
<br />
This was my inspiration:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXirCjKv2zPYAinAhtOEyHSnN5zu-ZwMpaBk8Jm9BBeVmi5q-ftuxn7g9pPl1uRFeeLCwpqx23742NMxmCsc6KXYXHymbCqIEczpctuO0NOw4xzkaDo0DUEWTKvF0HqcsOk96onS60HQ/s1600/c7121980_5_0a.JPEG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1205" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXirCjKv2zPYAinAhtOEyHSnN5zu-ZwMpaBk8Jm9BBeVmi5q-ftuxn7g9pPl1uRFeeLCwpqx23742NMxmCsc6KXYXHymbCqIEczpctuO0NOw4xzkaDo0DUEWTKvF0HqcsOk96onS60HQ/s640/c7121980_5_0a.JPEG" width="481" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1875 Symington corset in lasting, cotton and hessian</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It has created such a beautiful geometric lattice of stitches, which is just lovely and takes a plain black fabric to a work of art.<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I took the pattern for the Khaki Corded Corset from the Jill Salen book "Corsets", which is actually dated 1890-1900. However she herself says this corset is very similar to the above corset, and there is very little difference in the styling besides the hip gussets that I can see. It's like a combination/hybrid of the Khaki Corded and the Pretty Housemaid!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The stack of imported coutil was sitting there, calling, so this project was going to use a beautiful rich <a href="https://www.venacavadesign.co.uk/product.php/892/14/x" target="_blank">black brocade with gold spots</a> bought from Vena Cava, UK. As I wanted the gold spots to feature, I used black thread to sew this up, rather than the gold/yellow thread featured above. I started looking into which busks/eyelets etc I would need, and quickly realised that the only option was to Go Gold. I wanted a straight busk like the above, rather than a spoon busk, which fortunately came in gold, so ordered this, gold grommets, some steel boning and black lacing from <a href="https://www.sewcurvy.com/" target="_blank">Sew Curvy, UK</a>. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Cue impatient waiting.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
In the meantime I could scan and print off the pattern from "Corsets". I am still struggling with figuring out easy ways to stretch patterns width and length ways to fit my sizing requirements, but in the meantime the old cut-and-stick works for adjusting sizing. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Well, I thought it worked, but in the end my sizing was way off and I had to adjust seam allowances to accommodate. One day I'll figure it out. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The pattern called for four bust gussets and four hip gussets, all fully corded. This was somewhat of a challenge as it takes a bit of guess work to account for shrinkage: I like to use the method of sewing the cording into the fabric, keeping the back fabric tight to ensure the bumps are on the outside for maximum visual impact. This work absolutely killed my neck and shoulders as it involved so many hours of closely watching stitches on the machine. An hour a night was all I could stand before the heat pack came out and that was me for the evening. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Finally I was challenged to decide on flossing designs and so I used a gold top-stitching thread for great visibility, and a rather open design rather than a satin embroidery finish. I'm happy with it, though it certainly improved as I got further into the project. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
It was finished with a gold braid along the top and some black lace. The fit is great, and it looks and feels amazing. I do have wrinkling issues at the waist, and I know how I can improve that next time, but for now it is a great corset that will cover 1875-1900 quite happily. The measurements were about 34-25-35, none of which are my actual measurements but the style allowed me to add to bust and hip and take away from waist pretty easily. I'm looking forward to trying out some other of the Symington collection corsets over the next few years!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw05Fq1se-bb3rswjHDTmalFX_RMjV7BHXwVFQm7gGQCC0yLLplEeUnYM8atkcGRiuXTpf8N1JydT31VCisAoiBS-NGv76asKn_DWtNOLOHPqFrxrvQlSICI6pmYleFzprmBmyQWJ3Lg/s1600/fullsizeoutput_1cb.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1308" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw05Fq1se-bb3rswjHDTmalFX_RMjV7BHXwVFQm7gGQCC0yLLplEeUnYM8atkcGRiuXTpf8N1JydT31VCisAoiBS-NGv76asKn_DWtNOLOHPqFrxrvQlSICI6pmYleFzprmBmyQWJ3Lg/s640/fullsizeoutput_1cb.jpeg" width="521" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I am wearing an early Victorian chemise of lawn</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEX_Tj7mBa-vmsl51RjwVkSokG1hmlxVuzzl5P-_iMa1H_KUhLBVeerplPqJzfnc_04fGZq_LSwFBp7CDIXaj_n96JaI9eVnDOEHrjypauC4ESpszDd7I8IiBY4FKpb0LF77LTta9sXw/s1600/fullsizeoutput_1cd.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1279" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEX_Tj7mBa-vmsl51RjwVkSokG1hmlxVuzzl5P-_iMa1H_KUhLBVeerplPqJzfnc_04fGZq_LSwFBp7CDIXaj_n96JaI9eVnDOEHrjypauC4ESpszDd7I8IiBY4FKpb0LF77LTta9sXw/s400/fullsizeoutput_1cd.jpeg" width="318" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(sorry about the blurriness) It laced up perfectly</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7sTKVlYBZ0dfA54svMdLEC_HzNj1N0fYg3koOMu2BWlXPLYaFMvEFfXZfa_Fp3VZe7DJHFHRR7pbjDABOq1dHQ-5dD1cgkcX6CfV7U3c7Bu4wBtPF_Gwx1c6mg0ac9mLg36G2FzAJxw/s1600/fullsizeoutput_1d3.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="762" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7sTKVlYBZ0dfA54svMdLEC_HzNj1N0fYg3koOMu2BWlXPLYaFMvEFfXZfa_Fp3VZe7DJHFHRR7pbjDABOq1dHQ-5dD1cgkcX6CfV7U3c7Bu4wBtPF_Gwx1c6mg0ac9mLg36G2FzAJxw/s640/fullsizeoutput_1d3.jpeg" width="304" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The fit was very comfortable and supportive</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1geu28GtlB6_Z3fHn_57N6-QmW2HaUXowImIAFdRRO36hy59UTPbrRageBMgvNmVr2zaQQtLctU6C96gRmVNQ7V-v0vO-Zto3E71ToHAJjihzlnpCp4bsK7so9zjvcuhaPb_4KfP6sQ/s1600/fullsizeoutput_1d6.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1140" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1geu28GtlB6_Z3fHn_57N6-QmW2HaUXowImIAFdRRO36hy59UTPbrRageBMgvNmVr2zaQQtLctU6C96gRmVNQ7V-v0vO-Zto3E71ToHAJjihzlnpCp4bsK7so9zjvcuhaPb_4KfP6sQ/s640/fullsizeoutput_1d6.jpeg" width="456" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fitting the corded hip panels was rather tricky! </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCe8yUlnu_81alWhSTGtxx3ELNBJ0krCS8s4XiUT9ZRknabzGZd8Sl3FhZYSOGVHgyzMrWGx_yvojjNglgp5NwiHCO2u39wW7ahDcWn3bKQz2ZbX9iwitopAy7jfLq8tkEpC4hkXxhjw/s1600/fullsizeoutput_1b9.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCe8yUlnu_81alWhSTGtxx3ELNBJ0krCS8s4XiUT9ZRknabzGZd8Sl3FhZYSOGVHgyzMrWGx_yvojjNglgp5NwiHCO2u39wW7ahDcWn3bKQz2ZbX9iwitopAy7jfLq8tkEpC4hkXxhjw/s640/fullsizeoutput_1b9.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of the top edge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
</div>
Eloise Faithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16298695662174061689noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4839190847338641280.post-60389991289232815292019-05-09T15:53:00.001-07:002019-05-09T15:53:55.638-07:00Shadbelly - what?My 18-year old daughter has competed at dressage for years, and she asked me if I could make her a shadbelly. A what? you may ask. This is a dressage coat for those riders at higher levels. It has tails, it is double-breasted, with 'waistcoat' points, and it's based on the day coat worn by those super trendy men in the early-mid Victorian years.<br />
<br />
My research brought up only one company selling ready-made patterns of these coats, Suitability, based in the US. I ordered <a href="http://www.suitability.com/product_p/5850.htm" target="_blank">this dressage and shad belly pattern</a> and started my research into how to actually tailor.<br />
<br />
As all I'd ever done was dressmaking, I thought the first step was an online course, so I purchased <a href="https://www.mybluprint.com/playlist/491/3062" target="_blank">this jacket fitting course</a> off Craftsy, which was fantastic. I know how to make toiles from my years of trial and error, but this course gave me some tried and true practices when fitting a toile, as well as confirmed some of the ways I'd figured out how to do things. The fitting process was ssslllllooooww as for some reason despite my commitment to making the jacket, my daughter never seemed to be around (or willing!) to stand for a fitting. It was very interesting adjusting the fit for her actually. I learned that she and I might look like clones, but our body shapes are entirely different. While I have to account for wide, straight shoulders for me, she has very sloping shoulders. While I add 1-2" to my length, hers needed reducing by 1". While my sleeve length never changes from the packet, hers needed cuffing at the maximum length possible. And yet we are the same height and wear the same size clothing. It teaches me how crucial toiles are for well-fitting tailored clothing.<br />
<br />
Finally happy with the finished fit, I purchased another course, this time on <a href="https://www.mybluprint.com/playlist/4821/8647" target="_blank">modern jacket sewing techniques</a> and took a trip to the fabric store. My daughter wanted to stray from the traditional colours of navy and yellow, and instead chose a colour scheme of grey and pink, which is a beautiful combination! The first fabric I chose was 100% wool, but I changed that to a wool/poly blend, as it is going to be getting lots of wear and tear in it's life, as well as downpours and horse-slobber, so I wanted something pretty hard-wearing. I lined it with a satin lining as the regular lining was just a bit too transparent. I was completely unfamiliar with the correct weights of fusible interfacing for jackets, but what I've used seems to work. I've decided I definitely need a new iron and ironing board. Suggestions welcome!<br />
<br />
I'm pretty happy with the finished result. Yes, I did make one or two mistakes, and there are a few things I would do differently next time. Next time? When my daughter is riding Grand Prix, that is. The pattern was...ok, but not perfect. It seems to have completely omitted a couple of steps despite me reading, re-reading, re-re-reading to find it (how to complete the front and front facing waistline?), and I was definitely not happy with my working of the piped front - not one of my finest hours. However, it fits like a glove, it has all 20 buttons attached and all 14 button holes in working order, and most importantly, my daughter is happy with it. Tick.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBjW7Y8o0CaaqQETv6oXmwi9y4S5oysHj4pqyCjjoi9lve2JlFvIISu7qBwZbQ2snFnxBeu1OMbW6JKccgVVWBw0NylcRpMEC729HZ0Pg0ILrVKKCxEQRG1cQxKwONxqROIzrxU3lTTA/s1600/fullsizeoutput_1b3.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBjW7Y8o0CaaqQETv6oXmwi9y4S5oysHj4pqyCjjoi9lve2JlFvIISu7qBwZbQ2snFnxBeu1OMbW6JKccgVVWBw0NylcRpMEC729HZ0Pg0ILrVKKCxEQRG1cQxKwONxqROIzrxU3lTTA/s640/fullsizeoutput_1b3.jpeg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished jacket</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXLWSVFVoyg2VmQpUabrVUuurKLoHjgwtzFZE_tr_p39jumCbC62BimhKo22xJORLEn8zA_AzGGORT7ltMLGiuU7a1jJHPXFNYrVg8luD_PE3_G2iaar5pRcQQVgegiUaBmqPeYE_fMg/s1600/fullsizeoutput_1a8.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXLWSVFVoyg2VmQpUabrVUuurKLoHjgwtzFZE_tr_p39jumCbC62BimhKo22xJORLEn8zA_AzGGORT7ltMLGiuU7a1jJHPXFNYrVg8luD_PE3_G2iaar5pRcQQVgegiUaBmqPeYE_fMg/s400/fullsizeoutput_1a8.jpeg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished jacket - tails</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXtPG-vPzRSaWZ2sBWzDqGiLXeakLYqUGBsXc6v0PpP8r5rF0-8A6nwSya9aBXLJQnAMI5sXRwiEtapF5xYQ7um0AxMZzUtmKLQ6C1vTTdRDX5NS_RKyh-TLZXxOyem1d8KQDC4Bjq_Q/s1600/fullsizeoutput_1a2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXtPG-vPzRSaWZ2sBWzDqGiLXeakLYqUGBsXc6v0PpP8r5rF0-8A6nwSya9aBXLJQnAMI5sXRwiEtapF5xYQ7um0AxMZzUtmKLQ6C1vTTdRDX5NS_RKyh-TLZXxOyem1d8KQDC4Bjq_Q/s400/fullsizeoutput_1a2.jpeg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The tails are tacked open to sit properly when mounted</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYUuf2CqODz2wLvgBQhgkcBaUTJ-sLYfNcN6pNt-IRn4Ad_dYmk147peVrEEJZHJMWl24tzv8W26QXllw4UyuXXPETd3XtmLiFGyF6trQZfn7abQmWfhSN2WVpUhL_O7iqJVFw2n6U7Q/s1600/fullsizeoutput_194.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYUuf2CqODz2wLvgBQhgkcBaUTJ-sLYfNcN6pNt-IRn4Ad_dYmk147peVrEEJZHJMWl24tzv8W26QXllw4UyuXXPETd3XtmLiFGyF6trQZfn7abQmWfhSN2WVpUhL_O7iqJVFw2n6U7Q/s400/fullsizeoutput_194.jpeg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yes, I should have tidied up the button holds - doh.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMguiNKze-8IP2JuHm-OKNuZtVUSXJIjv7efpvpuDsB2jNkYxhKD_4jDWCBuaSmheIYtPf79YFNE1t-QOPzbXpIjK7gC6cOyxSU464yuxVT_K4cj6qhyphenhyphen3ks5NuKL8o1VpFXzjCJV3UhQ/s1600/fullsizeoutput_1b5.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMguiNKze-8IP2JuHm-OKNuZtVUSXJIjv7efpvpuDsB2jNkYxhKD_4jDWCBuaSmheIYtPf79YFNE1t-QOPzbXpIjK7gC6cOyxSU464yuxVT_K4cj6qhyphenhyphen3ks5NuKL8o1VpFXzjCJV3UhQ/s400/fullsizeoutput_1b5.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Points are in dusky pink silk dupion - scraps worth keeping!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbgMDz-7w6yB32Jtv7zETk6cfveTJj35xro5_tDq2NhSfKpTokVhLkk8_If2t3ekbuA16nmNFE1oV8RMqeDwn9wSBApUqxJcnI6LVwYtLKKdP2h1__4eUQne1rMWTMdOuCNfSLWcVJVw/s1600/fullsizeoutput_1b4.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbgMDz-7w6yB32Jtv7zETk6cfveTJj35xro5_tDq2NhSfKpTokVhLkk8_If2t3ekbuA16nmNFE1oV8RMqeDwn9wSBApUqxJcnI6LVwYtLKKdP2h1__4eUQne1rMWTMdOuCNfSLWcVJVw/s320/fullsizeoutput_1b4.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'm about 50% happy with piping. Next time...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3v9ScyENRDzYtNeSkwDZJ6VS6SrZt57nEcoX86suMDq_lyOWYONge3mtZ5XVC5D_6YY3J8QAm5ny4Tqq4BxSyS1gQIIU5GQ030kyF8jOBLXWfJdlZr9E60X7x1fYRLGqjvD-KjcwJcA/s1600/fullsizeoutput_1ae.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3v9ScyENRDzYtNeSkwDZJ6VS6SrZt57nEcoX86suMDq_lyOWYONge3mtZ5XVC5D_6YY3J8QAm5ny4Tqq4BxSyS1gQIIU5GQ030kyF8jOBLXWfJdlZr9E60X7x1fYRLGqjvD-KjcwJcA/s400/fullsizeoutput_1ae.jpeg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The fit is suited for riding, but I'd consider subtle<br />padding next time, to fill the gap between bust<br />and shoulder.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX_U2RUNiLtJXbgUojyf42UBltPooiZvo4CZ6Ww3rbCwZywre30Yp8286DjIwbjCaLm7KSeCH9DbT_JHmnVjXb-oIjQWvjYJDv38mCxALRv4GUEoSTQ_APd_o6LOlCC35lEfXQ4Y8UkQ/s1600/fullsizeoutput_199.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX_U2RUNiLtJXbgUojyf42UBltPooiZvo4CZ6Ww3rbCwZywre30Yp8286DjIwbjCaLm7KSeCH9DbT_JHmnVjXb-oIjQWvjYJDv38mCxALRv4GUEoSTQ_APd_o6LOlCC35lEfXQ4Y8UkQ/s400/fullsizeoutput_199.jpeg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I loved the seam lines. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisK4CUNXi4gjjjlDrb4yYhx3L-hZLN1c8JtHVz6oMbayDo3jL0XzQVuCnTmjvMnwUHgOTMyk7j5-IwbjlvM01yXxLdkRKirOxa1ES4FrOi7gByI14Xm6k_V09gjyA774YvCe7c1-pV8Q/s1600/fullsizeoutput_19b.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisK4CUNXi4gjjjlDrb4yYhx3L-hZLN1c8JtHVz6oMbayDo3jL0XzQVuCnTmjvMnwUHgOTMyk7j5-IwbjlvM01yXxLdkRKirOxa1ES4FrOi7gByI14Xm6k_V09gjyA774YvCe7c1-pV8Q/s400/fullsizeoutput_19b.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The first time using shoulder pads!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilkMOSHrbRjc8orvQ2lrUMAO6r63wqHOeYWGlEXX-XJnp_t2xrLWhC3GbZsRVG0HMwRP0ixKjCSKKaRKawYr_-uUsejHsofppumaXr2htCY31ngxNTMrq-7LTsfEkXSG3i1yp3QHgsCQ/s1600/fullsizeoutput_1a1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilkMOSHrbRjc8orvQ2lrUMAO6r63wqHOeYWGlEXX-XJnp_t2xrLWhC3GbZsRVG0HMwRP0ixKjCSKKaRKawYr_-uUsejHsofppumaXr2htCY31ngxNTMrq-7LTsfEkXSG3i1yp3QHgsCQ/s640/fullsizeoutput_1a1.jpeg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I can't wait to see it in a dressage test now!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Eloise Faithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16298695662174061689noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4839190847338641280.post-43699372124609260642019-03-10T01:26:00.000-08:002019-03-19T02:20:38.125-07:00February Challenge: Linen/linensWell, hello! My favourite fabric, especially when it's a lovely, hot summer!<br />
<br />
Our beautiful botanic gardens here in Wellington, NZ turned 150 this February, and we celebrated with a Victoria picnic. Friends were happy to join me in costume at the event...and as usual, I had nothing to wear. I actually literally mean Nothing To Wear, as I have no Victorian clothing at all, beyond the chemise and corset I made last year - yet to blog about.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
In fact, I had been waiting for an excuse to purchase and sew the <a href="https://www.scrooppatterns.com/collections/all" target="_blank">Fantail Skirt pattern by Scroop</a>, and what better opportunity? On <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/" target="_blank">Leimomi's</a> suggestion, I also purchased the <a href="http://wearinghistory.clothing/e-pattern-edwardian-era-1910s-blouse-and-guimpe-size-pack-1/" target="_blank">Edwardian Blouse by Wearing History</a>, as it's easy and quick to make up the basic form. So it's technically more an Edwardian costume than Victorian. Ok, I'll celebrate 110 years instead?<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGuqig_CnWMi-HQjFzx31NtKg6cjmcd_wy3YLd9mB2Qq7HrrKXHz69I7r1pEUKyS7UdkPUavuodWYVrGT2x_CH4sm_fjPuqv0Gjbb1sQx_i8M-OPm6lxnWFD4Kr0QFu1yIuNHz4s43Vw/s1600/insta4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGuqig_CnWMi-HQjFzx31NtKg6cjmcd_wy3YLd9mB2Qq7HrrKXHz69I7r1pEUKyS7UdkPUavuodWYVrGT2x_CH4sm_fjPuqv0Gjbb1sQx_i8M-OPm6lxnWFD4Kr0QFu1yIuNHz4s43Vw/s320/insta4.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wellington Botanic Gardens 150th Celebration</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Now, the Fantail pattern claims that with careful piecing one can actually make it up using just 3 metres, rather than the full 5 metres recommended. I love a challenge, I was making the smallest size, and to be quite honest three metres sounded quite sufficient for a skirt made of gores. I decided to give it a try.<br />
<br />
Either it was my piecing technique, my placing technique, or I just didn't hold my tongue right, but the piecing became rather extensive in the back panels! However I managed it and it looked lovely and cool for the scorching hot day. Sadly, the trip in the car resulted in a LOT of creases, but I know for future to take better care when seating myself!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7JYWZfAWZVhPgXR7FFj6-7ydxqi_zvkbl3SH-6oN-rMOoUTkfFWP7dXJ0Qcz5GH6tEBoy1bJT9RQJTo2GVD37DV8eHUXYGmpdSTesF1mvw75F_fq27OB7XbR42i2tgaFPpJh9fFeylw/s1600/insta.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7JYWZfAWZVhPgXR7FFj6-7ydxqi_zvkbl3SH-6oN-rMOoUTkfFWP7dXJ0Qcz5GH6tEBoy1bJT9RQJTo2GVD37DV8eHUXYGmpdSTesF1mvw75F_fq27OB7XbR42i2tgaFPpJh9fFeylw/s400/insta.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wellington Botanic Gardens 150th Celebration</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
There are further trims to add to the garment, after a bit more research. I will add some ribbon trim and belt tabs I think as I hate feeling the belt wasn't sitting right. Other than that, it was a lovely pattern to make, and so rewarding to be able to sew with a machine! Thanks <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/" target="_blank">Leimomi</a>, for bringing your wonderful camera and teaching me how to pose! Well, attempting to.<br />
<br />
<i><u><span style="font-size: large;">1900 Gored Skirt in Linen</span></u></i><br />
<br />
February challenge: Linen/Linens<br />
<br />
Material: Linen 3m<br />
<br />
Pattern: <a href="https://www.scrooppatterns.com/collections/all" target="_blank">The Fantail Skirt #1701h by Scroop</a><br />
<br />
Year: 1890-1910<br />
<br />
Notions: Matching cotton thread, metal Hook and Eye, metal Press studs<br />
<br />
How historically accurate is it: well, unless we go crazy here, I'd say 100%. I'm not going to worry about fabric widths and therefore cutting layout etc etc.<br />
<br />
Hours to complete: 5 possibly<br />
<br />
First worn: Wellington Botanic Gardens 150 year Victorian picnic.<br />
<br />
Total Cost: Linen $60, thread $5, Hooks etc $5<br />
$70 total approx..<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCpT0dS6FWJZf8XUSBWKLYO6v4jube8Txa6UqJAM5VeOJHXqZ7R6eXJOANdWJZ0ZG1lGPT4GMrQ5TP65aabeNmvLCnaz7XyZNoG4wZyjkuKriV6TTEjhODa9YV0OER3_q9wJwNtynhfw/s1600/insta9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCpT0dS6FWJZf8XUSBWKLYO6v4jube8Txa6UqJAM5VeOJHXqZ7R6eXJOANdWJZ0ZG1lGPT4GMrQ5TP65aabeNmvLCnaz7XyZNoG4wZyjkuKriV6TTEjhODa9YV0OER3_q9wJwNtynhfw/s400/insta9.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wellington Botanic Gardens 150th Celebration </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj11B-LBC2mtDAJrU2a_2ycGsYm_yCYmo28ZYifzSxxPzSdpTFsR8BRk1FqEs7Ha83FdzE2X39MDsurl5p5JP1b-1XSfPSoOB9cUtBBGrJDUGr6isQ_9tt9LCQ2iuogYTEagt8JDgvyXw/s1600/insta10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj11B-LBC2mtDAJrU2a_2ycGsYm_yCYmo28ZYifzSxxPzSdpTFsR8BRk1FqEs7Ha83FdzE2X39MDsurl5p5JP1b-1XSfPSoOB9cUtBBGrJDUGr6isQ_9tt9LCQ2iuogYTEagt8JDgvyXw/s400/insta10.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wellington Botanic Gardens 150th Celebration</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />Eloise Faithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16298695662174061689noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4839190847338641280.post-92133654043999791782018-12-30T21:15:00.000-08:002018-12-30T21:15:25.423-08:00December 2018 - the final challengesDespite not being actually on holiday, I fell into the spirit of things and started a list of 'Things To Complete Before the End of the Year'. This can either go one of two ways: it can motivate me, or, which is far more likely, it can completely terrify me and after throwing myself into a complete spin of indecision and confusion, I get absolutely nothing done.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
Luckily for me, this year it was the former.<br />
<br />
My list included:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Complete the 1865 chemise I started this year</li>
<li>Complete the 1865 Blue and Black corset I started this year</li>
<li>Complete the 1810 Pink and Green bonnet I started this year</li>
<li>Complete the Regency reticule I started this year</li>
<li>Complete the Pretty Housemaid corset (1890) I started LAST year</li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
And you know what, the most cool thing is when you get these items out of the box at the back of your cupboard, determined to stick at it until at least one of these things is completed, and you find that very little is needed for most of them!<br />
<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>The chemise needed 2 buttons bought and sewed on. Check.</li>
<li>The Blue and Black corset needed a small bit of binding, flossing and the lace sewn on. Check.</li>
<li>The bonnet...well that needed quite a bit sewn together and then all the trim, but I stuck at it until...Check!</li>
<li>The Pretty Housemaid corset needs a smallish amount of flossing done...</li>
<li>And the reticule...pretty much needs everything done...</li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
But for now, I can post the final <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-monthly-2018/" target="_blank">challenge</a> completed for the year: (Thank you, Leimomi! Perfect challenge!)<br />
<br />
<span style="color: #351c75;"><span class="_4yxp" style="font-family: "georgia" , serif; font-size: 17px; font-style: italic; white-space: pre-wrap;">December</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "georgia" , serif; font-size: 17px; white-space: pre-wrap;">: </span><span class="_4yxo" style="font-family: "georgia" , serif; font-size: 17px; font-weight: 600; white-space: pre-wrap;">Neglected Challenge</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "georgia" , serif; font-size: 17px; white-space: pre-wrap;">: Was there a challenge this year (or, if you’ve been doing the HSM for a while, in a previous year) you missed? Or didn’t create quite what you’d wanted for? This is your chance to make it up!</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #351c75;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: #351c75;"><span class="_4yxo _4yxp" style="font-family: "georgia" , serif; font-size: 17px; font-style: italic; font-weight: 600; white-space: pre-wrap;">October 2017</span><span class="_4yxo" style="font-family: "georgia" , serif; font-size: 17px; font-weight: 600; white-space: pre-wrap;">: Out of Your Comfort Zone</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "georgia" , serif; font-size: 17px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - Create a garment from a time period you haven’t done before, or that uses a new skill or technique that you’ve never tried before. </span></span><br />
<div>
<br /></div>
This is going to be Millinery, which is completely new to me and extremely daunting. 2017 started off well for me, but I started running a second business about August of that year, which is when my sewing went on hold. At our fabulous Regency weekend away, Leimomi started us off with patterns, materials and instructions for bonnets. These have mouldered away in corners of most of us, possibly, well, certainly in my case, but now will hopefully see the light of day and be finished!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVnwzJ5dfJGdwtObLRYBtYyKzJgH7tEMDNWAq9is1xxeL0NnT_mk7vNFFYxHVtm6oD_kVR5jMz_xroBiPIRNXOOv6HMvCvpzHNScRWD5aEvUHkUpzw-Jf3HU2JZVq7HkwtFnwxO6FBCg/s1600/IMG_2940.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1561" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVnwzJ5dfJGdwtObLRYBtYyKzJgH7tEMDNWAq9is1xxeL0NnT_mk7vNFFYxHVtm6oD_kVR5jMz_xroBiPIRNXOOv6HMvCvpzHNScRWD5aEvUHkUpzw-Jf3HU2JZVq7HkwtFnwxO6FBCg/s400/IMG_2940.jpg" width="390" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1810 Regency Bonnet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
What the item is:<br />
A Regency Bonnet<br />
<br />
What passed challenge are you recreating:<br />
October 2017: Out of your Comfort Zone<br />
<br />
Material:<br />
Silk dupion, silk taffeta<br />
<br />
Pattern:<br />
Regency Bonnet by Lynn McMasters<br />
<br />
Year:<br />
1810<br />
<br />
Notions:<br />
Buckram, Scraps of cotton batting/flannel, wire, linen thread, silk thread, all poly ribbons/flowers, ostrich feather<br />
<br />
How historically accurate is it?<br />
I'd say about 75%. Pattern seems accurate, I hand sewed it (while others machine stitched ;-) ) and used all accurate materials except for the ribbons/flowers: these are impossibly to source silk satin ribbons or flowers in NZ.<br />
<br />
Hours to complete:<br />
Maybe 20? Maybe 15? Hard to say.<br />
<br />
First worn:<br />
Hopefully this summer, one day when we manage to have a regency picnic.<br />
<br />
Total cost:<br />
Buckram, wire and trim were the only purchases. Maybe $30<br />
<br />Eloise Faithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16298695662174061689noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4839190847338641280.post-31168131576764045372018-11-14T22:20:00.000-08:002018-12-30T21:17:48.828-08:00A White Regency Evening GownThis gown has been a long time made now! I purchased the fabric while on holiday with my family nearly 2 years ago now, sewed it during the following year, and I have finally had the opportunity to wear and photograph it! Last month we had our first Historical Weekend in a beautiful cottage on lovely grounds up the coast. Our Sunday meal was designated as a Regency Tea, which was incredibly fun! Not only did we all have gowns to wear that suited the era, our amazing <a href="https://ninavirgoblog.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Nina</a> and <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/" target="_blank">Leimomi</a> organised some gorgeous dishes for the meal in keeping with the style...who knew cucumber could be dressed so many ways?! I will be including some more photos from the weekend in future posts, assuming I manage to get some kind of organisation in my life! But for now, I'll feature the regency gown.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br /><br />
I have to thank these five lovely ladies. We are all from different backgrounds, different ages and stages in life, but they all welcome each other and make each person feel special and valued. This is the first real photo shoot I've done, with lots and lots to learn about how to pose and what to do with your face!! It can only get better...<br />
<br />
This is also the first regency gown that I have made. I bought a very light textured cotton, almost like a muslin, with a self sprig on it. I bought the Fig Leaf pattern for an 1810 short sleeved front opening dress. The pattern will be on my pattern review page, but it was very good and the author is very available for questions. The original dress it is taken from would have been a size 14, so I cut the size 8.<br />
<br />
The pattern asked for 5 2/3 yards of fabric for sizes 8 - 28 (there's a problem right there). As I bought the fabric before the pattern, I had bought 3m of 150cm wide cotton. With careful cutting I managed to fit it in with not much to spare! I don't know what I would have done with the remaining 2 yards, as I didn't cut anything smaller or piece anything.<br />
<br />
I didn't need to alter it much at all, except to tighten the waist by moving the waist hook over further. It has a centre front opening, which is historically accurate. The bodice closes by pinning the linen lining one side over the other, then the top fabric has a draw-string at the neckline and a hook-and-eye at the waistband. The skirt is unlined, requiring a petticoat of course. It could have possibly done with a fine lining of lawn perhaps to help with the body of the skirt having a little more substance, while still being draped and floaty.<br />
<br />
I wore it with my regency shift, short stays, petticoat, and silk American Duchess stockings and slippers. My favourite winter scarf opens out to by my shawl. Leimomi did my hair with roses picked from the cottage garden and the jewellery are vintage replicas my sister gifted me about 10 years ago.<br />
<br />
I decided to completely handsaw the gown as I usually do. It's a gorgeous fabric to sew, so I used a fine cotton thread and mostly a running backstitch for the long seams, and a backstitch for the arm and bodice seams. It was easy to close, and most importantly, easy to take off at the end of the evening!<br />
<br />
The last 2 items to compete the picture will be a Regency Bonnet and a Reticule, both of which we attempted to make during our weekend away...but only got a fraction done of course.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7qoq9llS0UcHO-jaNfp3ezBaNEn0IsPZ71sr4QptGebc-We6igk6TuOGSQX8iA2Hztf-5dGDcf5ehUWSFWbuOWSn3vIoj9_WQKYQk5QKjoLnb-FZnt6b5sQCbONf0HNJpaWe2DGOxDg/s1600/eloise.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1100" data-original-width="662" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7qoq9llS0UcHO-jaNfp3ezBaNEn0IsPZ71sr4QptGebc-We6igk6TuOGSQX8iA2Hztf-5dGDcf5ehUWSFWbuOWSn3vIoj9_WQKYQk5QKjoLnb-FZnt6b5sQCbONf0HNJpaWe2DGOxDg/s400/eloise.jpeg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Regency Gown</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCV7KQYnpuCbKkP4hu-h-jaNiWzp0n4xcBgPDUnlDzVMmDADfBubaVsjlgpNI1g-17BCJD9za9pm7Ai_K323V286G4kA7eZp-NGfPisbVgQj7IkobyfFY0E0jZ_GnSQar6g-QdhulG0w/s1600/elosieclose.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="708" data-original-width="644" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCV7KQYnpuCbKkP4hu-h-jaNiWzp0n4xcBgPDUnlDzVMmDADfBubaVsjlgpNI1g-17BCJD9za9pm7Ai_K323V286G4kA7eZp-NGfPisbVgQj7IkobyfFY0E0jZ_GnSQar6g-QdhulG0w/s400/elosieclose.jpeg" width="363" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sadly my curls didn't last!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKXp33RUr9prwoT_k7kHGrsNwAFZhO1b2KYqzzyADWjuVPSguMWX3SgHWvzNeiJ59FKIjcVO9_F6J23Y16J5fvNqBiJh5jICL2i3MYOjKgWWXqB9cpnn_3x0rrzH_jb-8_uAH2P3qozA/s1600/leimomieloisepaula.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="853" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKXp33RUr9prwoT_k7kHGrsNwAFZhO1b2KYqzzyADWjuVPSguMWX3SgHWvzNeiJ59FKIjcVO9_F6J23Y16J5fvNqBiJh5jICL2i3MYOjKgWWXqB9cpnn_3x0rrzH_jb-8_uAH2P3qozA/s400/leimomieloisepaula.jpeg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Conversation under the trees</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihhN8HM20wHiNC1eSJM187O1rzDxIy08PzsbM0DcqbEMWVOKCcWe2s0pR9MI3B8Oi_Bp44AM_iOEf1614O1eGhT2ZQ5ze4SOMRgodLDjyFXHmet93vRzlI0IqBE5JlYhE3C54rS_HsfA/s1600/paulaeloise2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="962" data-original-width="821" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihhN8HM20wHiNC1eSJM187O1rzDxIy08PzsbM0DcqbEMWVOKCcWe2s0pR9MI3B8Oi_Bp44AM_iOEf1614O1eGhT2ZQ5ze4SOMRgodLDjyFXHmet93vRzlI0IqBE5JlYhE3C54rS_HsfA/s400/paulaeloise2.jpeg" width="341" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the edge of the cricket pitch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgynX3NNJd5W28qoD090isMD8MSWhF-DG4YARCnype2u_lK_cRx_mRcSlhuKKGZJu19v_lKyW2piSK0uE6ZIfRDB_Dm164NpJ1uwxuhPU3-eDzRMkdMmxVggTlWM03CTvlZcoc5v6Oc5g/s1600/PaulaEloise.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="675" data-original-width="747" height="361" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgynX3NNJd5W28qoD090isMD8MSWhF-DG4YARCnype2u_lK_cRx_mRcSlhuKKGZJu19v_lKyW2piSK0uE6ZIfRDB_Dm164NpJ1uwxuhPU3-eDzRMkdMmxVggTlWM03CTvlZcoc5v6Oc5g/s400/PaulaEloise.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Far too much laughter for serious photos</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjhNRJIFqfPbzaDoTez2oCOWUjOr-DS3MesH7YkFg9MpfR1OG9TrMtmLuHhEBwRSeqe4IgC2xUCCEKfFpztrPq3P-S_NyNlCIqfx9bv9R8qPPFBdgdFV1r68OoNgsnbO0ww3VE7cHkiA/s1600/unspecified-3.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="853" data-original-width="1280" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjhNRJIFqfPbzaDoTez2oCOWUjOr-DS3MesH7YkFg9MpfR1OG9TrMtmLuHhEBwRSeqe4IgC2xUCCEKfFpztrPq3P-S_NyNlCIqfx9bv9R8qPPFBdgdFV1r68OoNgsnbO0ww3VE7cHkiA/s400/unspecified-3.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Promenading around the cricket pitch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPpkpfiHM3lhX43WQPd-ZowC0BxfSrGVAcMyn-HzwRMxArsjSedyCIP9KpTZzGWf77eTk9cGFuqBN7Jxa7y5DxsDf6UHuq474djsy4kk_P1ku5QlwKqG-KqOTLHHugUI00dLbYkLDEEQ/s1600/unspecified-13.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="853" data-original-width="1280" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPpkpfiHM3lhX43WQPd-ZowC0BxfSrGVAcMyn-HzwRMxArsjSedyCIP9KpTZzGWf77eTk9cGFuqBN7Jxa7y5DxsDf6UHuq474djsy4kk_P1ku5QlwKqG-KqOTLHHugUI00dLbYkLDEEQ/s400/unspecified-13.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Conversation by the vineyard</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpNFfSw-CMYhXdPygKNPZk3TX0BsDvFSyDUp7lY5hr2ygxApcNjeT3x3eFnRLi0OLS6TR_f2AgPNIzY3mzeifnRJFbG3URx7T4zakYfwU-c7KNwP538IX3hKA_C9LHMp1sVazefztF4g/s1600/unspecified-22.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="853" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpNFfSw-CMYhXdPygKNPZk3TX0BsDvFSyDUp7lY5hr2ygxApcNjeT3x3eFnRLi0OLS6TR_f2AgPNIzY3mzeifnRJFbG3URx7T4zakYfwU-c7KNwP538IX3hKA_C9LHMp1sVazefztF4g/s400/unspecified-22.jpeg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Along the formal gardens</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN2-rvCCYestWtlMwpbYcLcNcg8adDnmdpDvkHxAfSX87Do7MthFsxznGObyYwCJZqJ1aZmotLTSxHuT_FOjcUiRwNXCcOFqKNxBhwaeIb86M3h_z6vxJQhdPCE8mvqFg0bFXxTNBFSw/s1600/unspecified-23.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="853" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN2-rvCCYestWtlMwpbYcLcNcg8adDnmdpDvkHxAfSX87Do7MthFsxznGObyYwCJZqJ1aZmotLTSxHuT_FOjcUiRwNXCcOFqKNxBhwaeIb86M3h_z6vxJQhdPCE8mvqFg0bFXxTNBFSw/s400/unspecified-23.jpeg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the back of sleeve detail</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig8D37tXWcDFsXT1wOAKUdFDX0QD_m437w_Ie9BOBOytAGbA_W54uuy-gkzrsX9zUabysG8J9-KTUCPAqDdAbg6GJJT8RRiU2BKdu-yiu6SyzEUCVFwI2wIcE-atky4dTP1sIz_SIL6w/s1600/unspecified-24.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="853" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig8D37tXWcDFsXT1wOAKUdFDX0QD_m437w_Ie9BOBOytAGbA_W54uuy-gkzrsX9zUabysG8J9-KTUCPAqDdAbg6GJJT8RRiU2BKdu-yiu6SyzEUCVFwI2wIcE-atky4dTP1sIz_SIL6w/s400/unspecified-24.jpeg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of us couldn't keep a straight face</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8cUwe5-ZmmgS2Qq2M_FoqTAe3k0SgD8rnvqnfzt_52vaavgtKL9LuCCCIA50oTO_dny8OtmB7uj0JKmLsj1G4Z0-VPtd0fvINiLDLwzu1qyIAvddj1pySSwmkfX9Hj5vMZsSKAdlQFw/s1600/unspecified-27.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="853" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8cUwe5-ZmmgS2Qq2M_FoqTAe3k0SgD8rnvqnfzt_52vaavgtKL9LuCCCIA50oTO_dny8OtmB7uj0JKmLsj1G4Z0-VPtd0fvINiLDLwzu1qyIAvddj1pySSwmkfX9Hj5vMZsSKAdlQFw/s400/unspecified-27.jpeg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I think there may be ants in my hair...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisLc6YGQeWq5P20njX-mdAgrd_MccXRQChEuvoGO20WRoiezb672vgIbt5Ki2CIihj4tFWrRMtI7Qzr5QTeKX3D-dIfrtF-PhMZYF4Y_OeuY04wraUn0tTihiHMZ0JrPRYu2_VIIcHzQ/s1600/unspecified-26.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="853" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisLc6YGQeWq5P20njX-mdAgrd_MccXRQChEuvoGO20WRoiezb672vgIbt5Ki2CIihj4tFWrRMtI7Qzr5QTeKX3D-dIfrtF-PhMZYF4Y_OeuY04wraUn0tTihiHMZ0JrPRYu2_VIIcHzQ/s400/unspecified-26.jpeg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's ok, they don't look like they will bite</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg33WYMgN6ipeKTiS6BpVkd2GLRlD4C6K0vlhM7jNQ84MBJTedi-pbb9wBee_iB7qeqxFT68U2dMPp_uhXT9xNkZL1RuPtPM1-mxm5zs4LjDqtMgz0tCHTySTR1IAH6PiUYS8eKFM9hug/s1600/unspecified-29.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="853" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg33WYMgN6ipeKTiS6BpVkd2GLRlD4C6K0vlhM7jNQ84MBJTedi-pbb9wBee_iB7qeqxFT68U2dMPp_uhXT9xNkZL1RuPtPM1-mxm5zs4LjDqtMgz0tCHTySTR1IAH6PiUYS8eKFM9hug/s400/unspecified-29.jpeg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lets get them out anyway...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjExqQ_2DX8JFEpkl4mTau9TOgzF6xo7Tb3CEQabujGShEGrNkNMyQ4GeP9DUsUD76YmoiG1QerM_prfXtD9ydMx8j_oghr8dhi7CYQ5wfv-mFCh66n6rTaUnqLnd46c88Gjl3nTVIW5w/s1600/zarastellapaulaeloise.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1014" data-original-width="763" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjExqQ_2DX8JFEpkl4mTau9TOgzF6xo7Tb3CEQabujGShEGrNkNMyQ4GeP9DUsUD76YmoiG1QerM_prfXtD9ydMx8j_oghr8dhi7CYQ5wfv-mFCh66n6rTaUnqLnd46c88Gjl3nTVIW5w/s400/zarastellapaulaeloise.jpeg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thanks for the fun, girls!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Eloise Faithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16298695662174061689noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4839190847338641280.post-89741411322589202392018-08-12T17:45:00.001-07:002018-11-14T00:56:37.593-08:004 Day Pirate CostumeEveryone loves a challenge...right?<br />
<br />
Our newly formed/re-formed Historical Sewing group organiser Leimomi, invited us to a Pirate Picnic...with four days notice. Bless.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br /><br />
I love a costume party. Nothing like a bit of cosplay for a laugh! So of course I was going to go all out. A stripy scarf and a plastic gun wasn't going to cut it for me. I joined my kids for a bit of Pirates of the Caribbean, and this is what I came up with on my pinterest costume list:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy8qoLIuVTSuIQxRwyATKpRbr7BkR4FF7b84gWCFjNOLj-3rlIsOuC6CifKNZopI2caSXomO3VbMIkunBy0cYuHm9hC35iTTG03I1AYqGJ87yElt5t0-UAdPBeuv-coQB-lX-zjoVA_w/s1600/Screen+Shot+2018-04-20+at+8.02.43+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="669" data-original-width="267" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy8qoLIuVTSuIQxRwyATKpRbr7BkR4FF7b84gWCFjNOLj-3rlIsOuC6CifKNZopI2caSXomO3VbMIkunBy0cYuHm9hC35iTTG03I1AYqGJ87yElt5t0-UAdPBeuv-coQB-lX-zjoVA_w/s320/Screen+Shot+2018-04-20+at+8.02.43+PM.png" width="127" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Underbust and layers</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUGg1UHCVdmP1pQ3-RWvnTatPeb-KCspLQK_rQ0IAkK_x2PiCf7KuB0QZD5i14JkY0ac2A5bRxZg8UxGohHQmFSC3s6jpakQ25UEWjanIrXkjQFAacxA1ONXiArTTmHC6vSEH2AahcfQ/s1600/Screen+Shot+2018-04-20+at+8.02.19+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="650" data-original-width="346" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUGg1UHCVdmP1pQ3-RWvnTatPeb-KCspLQK_rQ0IAkK_x2PiCf7KuB0QZD5i14JkY0ac2A5bRxZg8UxGohHQmFSC3s6jpakQ25UEWjanIrXkjQFAacxA1ONXiArTTmHC6vSEH2AahcfQ/s320/Screen+Shot+2018-04-20+at+8.02.19+PM.png" width="170" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More underbust and off-the-shoulder</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKUndntkRhE1Jc6sg_xEKD3FOHNGmn1SfONql7YvLnQE3HJQlAP4eQ21tQheUMQnSZgGNaEflpnmEUVDj68Eij8J2phbg2zD3afdz-jf-ASdyh5CtUPbM0vDE4b-aW1PoylV4rcsIiyQ/s1600/Screen+Shot+2018-04-20+at+8.00.51+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="486" data-original-width="332" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKUndntkRhE1Jc6sg_xEKD3FOHNGmn1SfONql7YvLnQE3HJQlAP4eQ21tQheUMQnSZgGNaEflpnmEUVDj68Eij8J2phbg2zD3afdz-jf-ASdyh5CtUPbM0vDE4b-aW1PoylV4rcsIiyQ/s320/Screen+Shot+2018-04-20+at+8.00.51+PM.png" width="218" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A bit of stripe and a headscarf</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<ul>
<li>A billowy black skirt</li>
<li>A petticoat in contrasting colour</li>
<li>A black and red corset</li>
<li>A white off-the-shoulder blouse</li>
<li>A head scarf </li>
<li>Gold earrings</li>
<li>Black and white stripy stockings</li>
<li>Some fun coloured shoes</li>
</ul>
<div>
I had the shirt, earrings and a great pair of green heels that I love to wear, and I could tear up some leftover linen for a head scarf, but the rest needed some thought. Pete's Emporium provided the stripy stockings, but the rest I'd have to make.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
A quick trip to Spotlight, with a list that mostly looked like this:</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>black ...</li>
<li>black ...</li>
<li>black ...</li>
<li>...</li>
</ul>
<div>
<br /></div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i><b>Billowy Black Pirate Skirt</b></i></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>3m black broadcloth (114cm wide)</li>
<li>1m Black ribbon</li>
<li>Black thread</li>
</ul>
<div>
In order to get maximum width, I sewed this with selvages a the top and bottom rather than your usual selvages as seams. The excess length made a great hem which was inches wide instead of a narrow one. The skirt was then just gathered using a cartridge pleat and sewn onto a self-waistband.<br />
<br />
One little trick I learned with the cartridge pleating: I sewed a widely spaced row of stitches at the waist using a contrasting colour and then was able to use this to sew my pleating rows (I used 2 machine stitches per cartridge pleat). This made lining the rows of gathers up quite easy.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i><b>Black and Red Underbust Corset</b></i></div>
<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>1/2m black cotton duck</li>
<li>1/2m lining fabric upholstery cotton</li>
<li>20 cable ties</li>
<li>32 1cm metal grommets</li>
<li>5m black satin ribbon</li>
<li>1 pack red bias binding.</li>
<li>2m black bias binding</li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
This was a bit of fun, and only took just over a day to make. I used a pattern I had drafted myself to use when back pain was an issue, and simply changed up the colours.<br />
<br />
Lining and outer fabric were sewn up as one, with seam allowance to the outside. These were trimmed to 5mm and then boning channels sewn over them using bias binding. Front and back facings were folded to inside and 2 boning channels sewn in them. Grommets inserted between these 2 rows. Bottom was bound using black bias binding sewn to outside, flipped inside and whipped down. Bones were inserted and top binding was applied ditto.<br />
<br />
It looked amazing with the billowy skirt and petticoat, and the off-the shoulder white blouse.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i><b>White Frilly Petticoat</b></i></div>
<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>2.5m white broad cloth (114cm wide)</li>
<li>5m cotton broderie anglaise </li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
Finally I needed a new petticoat to go under the skirt. For this I sewed it the usual way with selvages at the sides, leaving side openings and doing the traditional tying method with the front and back waistband separate which tie at the back and at the front respectively.<br />
<br />
At the bottom I sewed 4 pin tucks and then a deep gathered hem which was edged with cotton lace. I had intended to do the seam with the seam allowances out and then cover them with a ribbon-inserted lace strip as this leaves the inside much tidier but I forgot this until after the seam was done.<br />
<br /></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
***</div>
<br />
Altogether I had a blast sewing and then wearing the costume and the weather was perfectly pirate-y for the event. Wind strong enough to blow you over and plenty of sea and froth for the photos. Leimomi did a great write up <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/2018/03/arrrrr-matey-pirate-picnic/" target="_blank">here</a> on it, with much better photos than I could take! </div>
Eloise Faithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16298695662174061689noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4839190847338641280.post-69015961443738725152018-04-20T00:23:00.000-07:002018-11-14T00:56:20.008-08:00A Regency Petticoat <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimPkC2qxvGfFkwnutxFGjVNaNy_0HD4Xu_7uijAtWsCan6keiH0X8LGrrnxxLI3GsEm0G8SMrAxFV0HYhK68pG9u12Dv4rg2JTzD87RvO_lK8F08tXQfoLUPbyp4Fvd2zeU1S68wZTIQ/s1600/Screen+Shot+2018-02-16+at+9.52.15+am.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="442" data-original-width="602" height="292" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimPkC2qxvGfFkwnutxFGjVNaNy_0HD4Xu_7uijAtWsCan6keiH0X8LGrrnxxLI3GsEm0G8SMrAxFV0HYhK68pG9u12Dv4rg2JTzD87RvO_lK8F08tXQfoLUPbyp4Fvd2zeU1S68wZTIQ/s400/Screen+Shot+2018-02-16+at+9.52.15+am.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Satire of regency women's fashion</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The regency love of all things classical wasn't always suited to life in Britain. Ancient Greece maybe. Even 'current' day Italy. But thing were a little cooler, damper and less comfortable in England for the ideal image of the casually draped whispy sheet over the girlishly youthful figure that society sought to emulate.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br /><br />
Something has to give.<br />
<br />
Stays had changed drastically to suit the ideal silhouette, and so had the petticoats and 'shapewear'. No more bum rolls, hip pads or boned panniers. And also no more bulk-creating petticoats. Petticoats had been reduced to minimal and as thin as possible.<br />
<br />
This gorgeous petticoat inspired me, though I did include a very tiny bit of gathering at the front. The bodiced petticoats that are more commonly associated with this type is more the exception than the rule, and instead petticoats were held up to the fashionable height using pins to the stays, buttons, and also these straps. It all helped reduce bulk and keep things fine and dainty.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDQekLLJeKEkC404v2HdKV_fO9c2D5QswwpsGsAv1vnup_mRw7g-StVRstL45tBOwGyyPrQ59ukfJlHtNO6CngIlR8FttZ73x7SvYVUzLWghyphenhyphen-JiXPu9oh8JD0kfa_gzt2p5kEAJf4Fg/s1600/Screen+Shot+2018-02-13+at+8.39.25+am.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="310" data-original-width="289" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDQekLLJeKEkC404v2HdKV_fO9c2D5QswwpsGsAv1vnup_mRw7g-StVRstL45tBOwGyyPrQ59ukfJlHtNO6CngIlR8FttZ73x7SvYVUzLWghyphenhyphen-JiXPu9oh8JD0kfa_gzt2p5kEAJf4Fg/s400/Screen+Shot+2018-02-13+at+8.39.25+am.png" width="372" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Petticoat with straps</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Items used:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>2.5m cotton lawn (114cm wide)</li>
<li>1.5m cotton tape (25mm wide)</li>
<li>5m suitable lace (5cm wide)</li>
<li>Cotton thread</li>
</ul>
<br />
First I put on the undergarments to be worn under the petticoat and took measurements of:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Underbust</li>
<li>Strap length</li>
<li>Length (underbust to 1cm above ankles)</li>
</ul>
<div>
Lawn tears easily, so I ripped a strip approximately 5 cm wide for the waist band. Then I ripped the remainder across to the length plus 3-4cm (1cm SA for waist band and 2-3cm for hem).</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
These two widths are sewn together down the selvages using a combination running and backstitch at a stitch length of approximately 3mm. One side is knotted off firmly 20cm from the top for a side-back opening. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The remainder has the selvages folded back as a self-facing and then stitched down with a running stitch.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The waistband is ironed nice and flat, cut to the underbust measurement plus 2cm SA. The short edges have 1cm folded in and ironed, then the long edges have 1cm also folded in and ironed. Finally the whole length is folded in half, encasing the raw edges, and ironed flat.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Fold the petticoat in half and mark the centre front point with a pin or chalk. For the above petticoat, take your underbust measurement, divide by half and mark this distance either side of the petticoat centre front again using pin or chalk. These are your side front points.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Next, knot firmly some strong thread at the side front points and gather the remaining petticoat at about 5mm spacing approximately 7mm down from the raw edge. One side from the front ungathered area will be about 3/4 of the fabric, while the other side will be about 1/4, due to the opening being at the selvage edges. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Draw up this evenly until it matches your underbust measurement.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Open out the ironed waist band, and place the long raw edge even with the raw gathered edge of your petticoat. Pin at each edge of the opening first, and possibly the centre front, keeping the folded edge of the opening even with the ironed folded edge of the waistband. Adjust the gathers until they measure the same, pin, and stitch using a backstitch.<br />
<br />
Flip the waist band over like binding, fold under seam allowance of long and short ends and whipstitch into place, catching the gathers.<br />
<br />
I finished the closure with a hook and eye.<br />
<br />
Next, sew on the straps at the back waistband. You will need to try the petticoat on to wee where to do this. Then pin the front of the straps where they fit. Remove and sew onto the waistband.<br />
<br />
For finishing the bottom hem, I did several pin tucks until the length was about right for my gown. It's best to be above the ankle so that it will suit several styles of dress. Then I hemmed the bottom and sewed on some lace. Finally I created the 'swag' effect using more of the lace. Though fairly subtle, it is very pretty and changed a very plain petticoat to a pretty piece of underwear.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSJTkJKkj2JcAiEQclkpksngO86ykxtpdAur-pBt1zOfRzko6qsSm2HQJMJHRgl57rXD9C4EC44MN_sMMg-i2BBk4TYw-131XZZADz2vgivvSKeiq3v3hSi4npTV_K3MGOmmQQbosI6g/s1600/27858795_10215238104335455_3968766131840148080_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSJTkJKkj2JcAiEQclkpksngO86ykxtpdAur-pBt1zOfRzko6qsSm2HQJMJHRgl57rXD9C4EC44MN_sMMg-i2BBk4TYw-131XZZADz2vgivvSKeiq3v3hSi4npTV_K3MGOmmQQbosI6g/s400/27858795_10215238104335455_3968766131840148080_n.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Completed petticoat</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV-gwslxmP_p6XVo559Hqhn3Vu-gVtF9f11dTLqP-W-5-gKfGS1IHLIvM_5GmLKmKNpSXzFICgJSGjiQkzzQOiF45ztHUUCc9braENhVb-2-9v2Yfwi9OGIka0H1SD6rdTQPwR0r6_ag/s1600/27751791_10215238110495609_8470509484857493226_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV-gwslxmP_p6XVo559Hqhn3Vu-gVtF9f11dTLqP-W-5-gKfGS1IHLIvM_5GmLKmKNpSXzFICgJSGjiQkzzQOiF45ztHUUCc9braENhVb-2-9v2Yfwi9OGIka0H1SD6rdTQPwR0r6_ag/s400/27751791_10215238110495609_8470509484857493226_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hem lace detail</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDhk6uW5NU1WESjFIy4yulfymsI6yf85P7ESTMOT_-V7B4xiSWpe6-irWNphcoP38RNaEm2XNHAxResII7U-YehGAlDzleN-Y7L8hHrQmLF4T1Uvi-HE7mCrhMh6lFI5jetn4CIxPAWQ/s1600/27867102_10215238109895594_4618784897024298344_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDhk6uW5NU1WESjFIy4yulfymsI6yf85P7ESTMOT_-V7B4xiSWpe6-irWNphcoP38RNaEm2XNHAxResII7U-YehGAlDzleN-Y7L8hHrQmLF4T1Uvi-HE7mCrhMh6lFI5jetn4CIxPAWQ/s400/27867102_10215238109895594_4618784897024298344_n.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Swag lace detail</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
Eloise Faithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16298695662174061689noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4839190847338641280.post-51438440615096502962018-02-17T00:53:00.000-08:002018-02-18T16:28:08.493-08:00Regency ShiftAs you have seen in a previous post, I made a set of Short Stays for the new era I am focusing on: the Regency era. FYI, this was officially the years of 1811-1820 in England, while under the rule of the Prince Regent George IV, but the style of clothing started a few years earlier. The style was very skimpy, flimsy and whimsical, showing plenty of arm and bosom during the evening. I needed a new shift that wouldn't show under my new gown!<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
I won't go over the general construction of the shift, as it is almost identical to the previous <a href="https://linenandlining.blogspot.co.nz/search/label/shift" target="_blank">18th century shift</a> I made using <a href="http://www.marquise.de/en/1700/howto/frauen/18chemise.shtml" target="_blank">this excellent instruction</a>. The main differences were a shorter sleeve, almost to the point of a capped sleeve, a lower neckline, and this time I was experimenting with rolled hems and frilled necklines.<br />
<br />
The rolled hem makes a lovely dainty edge, especially when used on a very fine fabric such as cotton lawn, as I have used here.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtT92bfpDoNZBM3zBP7MmgRX-elOu0h2YaSQGIwHLvzhY5nQAnvpx4h26Jw_oZBCX-6sHZOppeXKFViteqHvBMwWmrG6L2ioBFQHCZqVhYbhBHB_n-X8QU6efDN12gInF-mdORaQ3maw/s1600/IMG_7766+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtT92bfpDoNZBM3zBP7MmgRX-elOu0h2YaSQGIwHLvzhY5nQAnvpx4h26Jw_oZBCX-6sHZOppeXKFViteqHvBMwWmrG6L2ioBFQHCZqVhYbhBHB_n-X8QU6efDN12gInF-mdORaQ3maw/s400/IMG_7766+%25281%2529.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frill at neck of shift</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
To make a rolled hem, cut the fabric to the desired width (in this case, 2.5 cm wide) as close to the grain as you possibly can. If you are able to pull a thread out or out of place, this will help you get it right on the grain. A swipe along the fabric grain with soap can make pulling a thread easier! If not, just do the best you can by eying it up.<br />
<br />
Next, you dampen your thumb and finger and basically roll the long edge of the fabric, re-rolling as tight as you can. Roll up a couple of inches at a time. Hold this tight with your left hand close to where you are sewing.<br />
<br />
Knot and start off your thread inside the 'roll', picking up barely a thread or two from first the outside of the roll, then from the main fabric, just beside the roll. Keep your stitches tiny, maybe 2-3mm apart. As you go, carefully pull your thread to keep the roll, but not so tight as to create a gather, as this is the outside edge of your frill.<br />
<br />
Continue until you get to the end, then tie off.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWjLhZQAAGtvsjQPAEQuzH7JPNNwGD5eC0s90c6JUlm6GPLAukt4UD9UxV14rv_wnd6yAsklioNnSnOykvYpuz-17DrNql26gXsWVhFcXX3WY08vlvVdLU-ziLZULQndxan_IzSRrGIg/s1600/rolled+hem.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="505" data-original-width="708" height="283" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWjLhZQAAGtvsjQPAEQuzH7JPNNwGD5eC0s90c6JUlm6GPLAukt4UD9UxV14rv_wnd6yAsklioNnSnOykvYpuz-17DrNql26gXsWVhFcXX3WY08vlvVdLU-ziLZULQndxan_IzSRrGIg/s400/rolled+hem.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished neck edge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
For the other side of the frill, you can avoid both hemming, then gathering by doing a very niftly two-in-one stitch: the gathered rolled hem. For this I use a linen or a stronger thread. Sew your rolled edge the same as you have done for the outside of the frill, but this time, every few inches of sewing, push the roll up the thread, gathering it to the tightness that you prefer. This leaves a bumpy and gathered edge to your frill for a tucker, flounce or whatever decorative edge you are finishing. This is easy to whip to the finished neck edge or the inside of a cuff or cap and saves time hemming then stitching: simply unpick the whips if you need to wash (by hand), leaving the frill gathered.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmL7NyyUh1zM6fmD-X1znbtvgBVRsE0LKAwUJTC8gz7665bcSKAg8drztU1DFcMFahjR5rjf7uoxcicuTDsN8rp-1U7sGcuQ-HLZ42JOSobt8lHJeJj64NE8kGiKBzcGu2n8LMdHltYA/s1600/rolled+hem+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="536" data-original-width="651" height="328" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmL7NyyUh1zM6fmD-X1znbtvgBVRsE0LKAwUJTC8gz7665bcSKAg8drztU1DFcMFahjR5rjf7uoxcicuTDsN8rp-1U7sGcuQ-HLZ42JOSobt8lHJeJj64NE8kGiKBzcGu2n8LMdHltYA/s400/rolled+hem+2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rolled edge and gathered rolled edge inside shift</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
That is the only real point that differed from the normal 18th century shift, and it sits very nicely under the short stays.<br />
<br />
If you want any better photos or further information about the process, please feel free to comment.Eloise Faithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16298695662174061689noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4839190847338641280.post-58673023278234712812018-02-15T13:12:00.000-08:002018-02-16T21:35:40.126-08:00The Year of the NeedleAs I enthusiastically and optimistically stated in my previous blog, this is my year for sewing. In a kind of half and half way. My slightly OCD mind loves order and plans...lists of lists, anyone? <br />
So I looove joining in with <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-monthly-2018/" target="_blank">The Dreamstress's Historical Sew Monthly challenges</a>. Here are the challenges I will participate in:<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><i><b>February: Under - make something that will go under the outer layers.</b></i></li>
</ul>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUTqZfIsf7YkKcCZMrA1QgdqDY9ChAetD_dPvrKmKFhppj3w3IhUU-iPcwW7nZGPnjXDAR8kYrnpuvu1c0uA7KSW3yuCkuUIsyIo1l9C7Q8DPrb3hCG10CB4xxFeKwHRLc61qlVEv1Kg/s1600/Screen+Shot+2018-02-16+at+9.52.15+am.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="442" data-original-width="602" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUTqZfIsf7YkKcCZMrA1QgdqDY9ChAetD_dPvrKmKFhppj3w3IhUU-iPcwW7nZGPnjXDAR8kYrnpuvu1c0uA7KSW3yuCkuUIsyIo1l9C7Q8DPrb3hCG10CB4xxFeKwHRLc61qlVEv1Kg/s320/Screen+Shot+2018-02-16+at+9.52.15+am.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We don't want this, do we? <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:The_graces_in_a_high_wind_by_James_Gillray.jpg" target="_blank">(wiki)</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Serendipity. I just needed to make a <b>Regency period petticoat</b> to go under the (ahem) see-through 1810 Regency gown I made last year. There's a bit of mystery and supposition around regency petticoats: what is accurate historically and what is reenactment convenience and appeal.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdZdGsqme1VNQQaEALUntuiOnIO5MSES2HLpIWsVmLx_fqh_1icDWgnZkhzlIsaqGR8wsHpgFKc5uRy5ZDde5EYMkRolTZAsgqVLdMHI51DPg_9EI9J2WqLnkDRtyhWIuOydOvIfIoQA/s1600/Screen+Shot+2018-02-13+at+8.39.25+am.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="310" data-original-width="289" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdZdGsqme1VNQQaEALUntuiOnIO5MSES2HLpIWsVmLx_fqh_1icDWgnZkhzlIsaqGR8wsHpgFKc5uRy5ZDde5EYMkRolTZAsgqVLdMHI51DPg_9EI9J2WqLnkDRtyhWIuOydOvIfIoQA/s1600/Screen+Shot+2018-02-13+at+8.39.25+am.png" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
Gorgeous petticoat from <a href="https://www.janeausten.co.uk/regency-petticoats/" target="_blank">janeausten.co.uk</a> </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span id="goog_553216019"></span>
<br />
<ul>
<li><b><i>April: Buttons and Fastenings - create an item where the closures are the star of the show.</i></b></li>
</ul>
I've decided the next period to dabble in is the early Victorian, and the first thing to create is a set of <b>1850-60s stays/corset</b> that includes the revolutionary new busk. I'm pretty excited about this and can't wait to finish off the last few projects so I can start researching these!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKH2G-eUy4B4iTNYZ5CIGfn0htX5FPIhsWPpIe-9Bx1gvv0QlcOIFzky3ER0xGFgz0IvMvsixowni7vakfhlO5dPohJhV8yirOH1bcZpJ5Ogi389oH55opyaQE68V7jPYCJ7H1SWiVbA/s1600/Screen+Shot+2018-02-16+at+9.46.46+am.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="786" data-original-width="614" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKH2G-eUy4B4iTNYZ5CIGfn0htX5FPIhsWPpIe-9Bx1gvv0QlcOIFzky3ER0xGFgz0IvMvsixowni7vakfhlO5dPohJhV8yirOH1bcZpJ5Ogi389oH55opyaQE68V7jPYCJ7H1SWiVbA/s320/Screen+Shot+2018-02-16+at+9.46.46+am.png" width="249" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Silk corset 1864 from <a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O15546/corset-unknown/" target="_blank">V&A Museum no. T.169-1961</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<ul>
<li><b><i>June: Rebellion and Counter-Culture - Create an item that pays homage to fashion rebels and clothes that flaunt their place on the fringes of standard sartorial society, or that was signature to a rebelling cause.</i></b></li>
</ul>
<br />
This isn't exactly in line with the challenge, I've read that drawers were considered very out-there and rebellious when they first started being worn post-regency, early Victorian. So a pair of <b>early victorian drawers</b> it shall be! To go with the Victorian corset. Optimistically. Though I love to wear my shifts as nighties, I can't imagine my long-suffering husband to allow me to wear drawers, so these will be purely for the costume closet.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8vbhxN8q2O7Egz0mOfHJ8rZG2UaWLdRDXOoRIYT8d_VORcLy8mJEPbHfbubKX79vUaVk-hyALvdfYWw6Q9UJXQMUBil1nX4zmyLjN3RxMjFG9SPUI88itJdwZcwbZ1KhySpdcUM-2iQ/s1600/Screen+Shot+2018-02-16+at+9.56.07+am.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="503" data-original-width="393" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8vbhxN8q2O7Egz0mOfHJ8rZG2UaWLdRDXOoRIYT8d_VORcLy8mJEPbHfbubKX79vUaVk-hyALvdfYWw6Q9UJXQMUBil1nX4zmyLjN3RxMjFG9SPUI88itJdwZcwbZ1KhySpdcUM-2iQ/s320/Screen+Shot+2018-02-16+at+9.56.07+am.png" width="250" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gorgeous! </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<ul>
<li><b><i>August: Extant Originals - Copy an extant historical garment as closely as possible.</i></b></li>
</ul>
<br />
This one requires some research! But I am extremely excited about this. All I know is that it will be pretty simple, and possibly along the lines of the poorer class. It will depend on fabrics and threads available to me, mostly. Possibly something like this 1500s linen/wool dress. Though something closer to...well...now, would certainly be easier.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDYLMpTaWld9_9Q3hoD59AXJ3oCBxmy-Kgb_J_RYcs0l2fFmaCiNbUdZuyBONnSt7Pnrwc1fdc9nw9LEl2PsMnC8xji4Pwm0cDq1QF9tMmjp8UnKO5_vJNPMsPCBUJmMvSUAGcgTIuqw/s1600/Screen+Shot+2018-02-16+at+10.02.49+am.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="568" data-original-width="227" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDYLMpTaWld9_9Q3hoD59AXJ3oCBxmy-Kgb_J_RYcs0l2fFmaCiNbUdZuyBONnSt7Pnrwc1fdc9nw9LEl2PsMnC8xji4Pwm0cDq1QF9tMmjp8UnKO5_vJNPMsPCBUJmMvSUAGcgTIuqw/s400/Screen+Shot+2018-02-16+at+10.02.49+am.png" width="158" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A mid-late 1500 house dress <a href="http://aneafiles.webs.com/renaissancegallery/extant.html" target="_blank">(source)</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<ul>
<li><i><b>October: Fabric manipulation: Take fabric to the next level with any kind of historical embellishment or manipulation: smocking, shirring, embroidery, beading, pinking, ruching, printing, painting, dyeing etc.</b></i></li>
</ul>
<br />
This is the month to complete and reveal my <b>pink and green silk taffeta 1780 English gown and petticoat</b>. It will be a ruffled and ruched thing of glory, or I'll die trying. I'll have been working on it for over a year by then (I might literally die of old age) so it sure had better be finished!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbhG-j405Mg37xfUhZEF1Ha2P_E6l6egQAC1ZT85H6ugXxovJNv0HFRSyz59F4Zihmlp6GoQEw08rxVj8FZgyoynF-JDaL0lI-qAtXfoBsxeYrJxDtNe00AuS9HARxIuhnjVZXB9I_Wg/s1600/Screen+Shot+2018-02-12+at+1.30.23+pm.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="643" data-original-width="393" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbhG-j405Mg37xfUhZEF1Ha2P_E6l6egQAC1ZT85H6ugXxovJNv0HFRSyz59F4Zihmlp6GoQEw08rxVj8FZgyoynF-JDaL0lI-qAtXfoBsxeYrJxDtNe00AuS9HARxIuhnjVZXB9I_Wg/s400/Screen+Shot+2018-02-12+at+1.30.23+pm.png" width="243" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://vivelareine.tumblr.com/post/119545483643" target="_blank">Image found here</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<ul>
<li><b><i>December: Neglected Challenge - was there a challenge this year (or if you've been doing the HSM for a while, in a previous year) you missed? Or didn't create quite what you'd wanted to? This is your chance to make it up!</i></b></li>
</ul>
<div>
I am going to leave this empty for now, as I know I will have a mountain of unfinished things by then! Maybe still the Tudor costume I'm currently working on (gown, sleeves and hood). Or maybe some other ridiculously overindulgent project I started enthusiastically.<br />
<br /></div>
<div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
*****<br />
<br /></div>
</div>
<div>
The final part of this sewing schedule is the most important focus for the year: connecting with other sewists. Geeking out about costume or history: its much more fun to do it with others than on our own!<br />
<br />
I'd like to do some, if not all, this year:</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li><i>Meet up regularly with other historical sewists </i></li>
<li><i>Attend at least one historical event in a completed costume</i></li>
<li><i>Visit a museum and study the extant clothing on display</i></li>
<li><i>And finally, keep a good photo blog account of my progress of the above</i></li>
</ul>
<div>
So that's my plan for the year of 2018. </div>
</div>
Eloise Faithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16298695662174061689noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4839190847338641280.post-56815928665320335192018-02-08T16:40:00.001-08:002018-02-16T21:34:04.307-08:00Finding self expression when in life-survival mode!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2cdNR2f7WXP1OWdI5TB7E-Nx6J-TQzGtouXyEM3nbcl9aiZJbWcmCXwj3ieaUraoGHDj0jxBy_q2zwVjtGCXLcWk-nodat2iLWkICZZxX3YwC6Ygls0RIv2nngTXwh9MLgcBtwP0gvw/s1600/Namibia+tea.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="530" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2cdNR2f7WXP1OWdI5TB7E-Nx6J-TQzGtouXyEM3nbcl9aiZJbWcmCXwj3ieaUraoGHDj0jxBy_q2zwVjtGCXLcWk-nodat2iLWkICZZxX3YwC6Ygls0RIv2nngTXwh9MLgcBtwP0gvw/s400/Namibia+tea.jpg" width="220" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally a cup of tea! (Namibia)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It's the beginning of 2018! The beginning of the year is always a good time to reasses your life and in what direction the currents of influence in your life have turned you. <br />
Have you met new people who have swayed your interest towards activities you previously weren't aware of? Or maybe you have been dreaming for years of a particular hobby that you never thought you'd bring into reality in your life, and your life situation has changed to allow your to have time to pursue these? Or even your work position has changed one way or another and you have more or even less time for yourself?<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I had a drastic change in my life last August, when I had to take over the running of our second business previously run by managers. My time was no longer spent running my beautiful home and garden, driving around after our three teenage kids, and helping out in our other business when needed. Everything that wasn't survival was put aside. I really grieved the lifestyle that we had created over 18 years of marriage and business. The first thing that was cut and scrapped was my hobbies. Isn't that always the way?? </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
This summer we had a five week holiday. In 18 years of business we have never taken more than two weeks holiday over summer, but our main business was running so well that we decided to take the kids to Africa before they all started flying the nest! It was intoxicating, the idea of that kind of time away from work. And then August's bombshell hit. My husband insisted that come hell or high water, we were going on that holiday we had booked and paid for, and so Christmas rolled around and off we flew! What on earth would our businesses do without us??<br />
<br /></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4eHUkLQiv8gTf66li92GViqai31QEVgoGpmDPdwdwDyeG1CHt3C8DxLmfC-mQ3ZSk1PoHFiuQwiAHnvPAr5sWAA1ea_pHOH9Mjvr4yaYvoFF_LuXXbgaErdXMvtdf0drivcUNSpyWkA/s1600/IMG_9534.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4eHUkLQiv8gTf66li92GViqai31QEVgoGpmDPdwdwDyeG1CHt3C8DxLmfC-mQ3ZSk1PoHFiuQwiAHnvPAr5sWAA1ea_pHOH9Mjvr4yaYvoFF_LuXXbgaErdXMvtdf0drivcUNSpyWkA/s400/IMG_9534.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me and the kids with our Land Cruiser in Namibia</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div>
Of course, they were fine. Nothing burned down, customers still came and spent money. And during that time I realised how much of myself I had lost by putting my own interests and timeout on hold. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Nope, time to get things back in balance. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
So what is the year going to look like, considering my responsibility haven't actually changed!?</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Sewing is my time out and my creative spirit. Also, my home and garden are a huge passion, especially until both are completed renovated. I am determined to keep pursuing my historical sewing, gardening <u>and</u> interior decorating with a few tweaks...</div>
<div>
<br />
<b><i><u>2018 Hobbies Schedule:</u></i></b></div>
<div>
I am going to try out alternate months focusing on sewing and home, both in practice and in blogging. The month will, in theory, start and end with a group sewing event. During the sewing off-month, I can store up ideas and plans, to be put into action once the month rolls around.<br />
<br />
How am I actually going to put this into action? That remains to be seen, and when I figure that out, I'll let you know! Do you know the biggest challenge? Saying no! Isnt this the hardest thing?<br />
<br />
Happy new year xx<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikNK9Z5Zcoc6t8INDGZVeRW6aRfHSba75GZk5IueN9uCvRdFKerF-sasgxkCCOJiSM224bN411gBjUTAOmIppcp_Vx6WlGQm7ANDwp3lTxU-39m9_yF-yCYw086M0s2_XSGwd72yjKSQ/s1600/Victoria+Falls.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikNK9Z5Zcoc6t8INDGZVeRW6aRfHSba75GZk5IueN9uCvRdFKerF-sasgxkCCOJiSM224bN411gBjUTAOmIppcp_Vx6WlGQm7ANDwp3lTxU-39m9_yF-yCYw086M0s2_XSGwd72yjKSQ/s400/Victoria+Falls.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Victoria Falls, Zambia</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
Eloise Faithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16298695662174061689noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4839190847338641280.post-33490440087581803552017-07-06T19:14:00.000-07:002018-02-16T21:33:18.693-08:00Regency Short StaysIt's time to make some short stays! As I discussed in my last post, I decided to start by making some short stays from the <a href="https://linenandlining.blogspot.co.nz/p/patterns-review.html" target="_blank">Regency Underthings pattern</a> by Sense and Sensibility. <br />
The pattern was pretty straight forward and most importantly, I could download it, print it out and start making it instantly! I tend to be impatient like that, not exactly compatible with historical sewing, I've discovered. None the less, I managed to work out how to print to scale and dived straight in.<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
From the Stash, I was able to source:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Silk Dupioni in blush pink (outer layer)</li>
<li>White linen (lining)</li>
<li>White cotton duck canvas (interlining)</li>
<li>Artificial whale boning</li>
<li>White lambskin leather (binding)</li>
<li>White cotton thread</li>
<li>Natural cotton lacing</li>
<li>Blush pink embroidery cotton (external boning channels)</li>
</ul>
<div>
And that about did it! I wouldn't need to buy anything. This would be one of the the projects I could tell my husband was saving him money on!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
As stay-makers seemed to have learned by this era how to create lift using cups, boning wasn't so important. So these stays had very light boning in them. I planned on learning to work eyelets by hand, so that would be a challenge. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
All the pieces (it is a 5-piece pattern) are cut out of outer fabric, interlining, and lining fabrics. I started with the interlining as a 'practice'. This went pretty well, then I moved onto the lining and finally finished off with the outer fabric. They did need to all match up nicely, so make sure you cut them correctly and use the same seam allowances! I used the B cup measurement, as I'm on the small side of C/larger side of B cup. I discovered this might be too small, so next time would make the C cup size.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
As it was a very small project, I did all the sewing by hand. Mostly I used a backstitch, assuming that the vertical seams would have the most strain on them. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The first step was to sew up the gussets into the front bodice pieces. <span style="text-align: center;">Cut out the cup slit and cut the corners diagonally. </span><span style="text-align: center;">Press seam allowances out, pin the cup gusset over the seam allowance.</span><span style="text-align: center;"> </span><span style="text-align: center;">Sew from the </span><b style="text-align: center;">outside</b><span style="text-align: center;"> neatly </span><span style="text-align: center;">(I used a running stitch). Finish off by pressing. Complete all four gussets.</span></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Z-Ebfhl8MPm5B8nGO6iC3pKbcEtBIkrYiealYIgdLgCqDDNZ4I8myobakDZH3eQ6RBBFEMcYMVMWNO4wb58Yg7ox33_nTb2iZfDT821CS-P_AWOtzePhEZhPA0FJniHyix7c8rS8xA/s1600/IMG_4636.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Z-Ebfhl8MPm5B8nGO6iC3pKbcEtBIkrYiealYIgdLgCqDDNZ4I8myobakDZH3eQ6RBBFEMcYMVMWNO4wb58Yg7ox33_nTb2iZfDT821CS-P_AWOtzePhEZhPA0FJniHyix7c8rS8xA/s400/IMG_4636.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKT4lPQ-VHNvB-4ZNjO-VoG6xAe43CEqYFDSzxwpTI5wULJ0e04kGLrWy99Sl_a1MpJzu71rzU-2jXshPgYatKAkjIrZeG1g-R9sXyWJBBq8j9UQR619MMZYpnLBLq9pWZrR-YFBXzKg/s1600/IMG_4634.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKT4lPQ-VHNvB-4ZNjO-VoG6xAe43CEqYFDSzxwpTI5wULJ0e04kGLrWy99Sl_a1MpJzu71rzU-2jXshPgYatKAkjIrZeG1g-R9sXyWJBBq8j9UQR619MMZYpnLBLq9pWZrR-YFBXzKg/s400/IMG_4634.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
After this, I sewed all the seams up using a backstitch. I pressed the seams and clipped the curved ones. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwbNRsGHg3Qm3hrfTlXqg4ZUq117dmXWH8IuaqvWGAV8QctNBTrhTQzp8ahwTSeH_Ogvmrb8XzfNNkCorUhT6zh515n-pucWvqzjVC7fiDgoksQlyPEMg2L4pH6_nLDTu9KOH21D9vcA/s1600/IMG_4638.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwbNRsGHg3Qm3hrfTlXqg4ZUq117dmXWH8IuaqvWGAV8QctNBTrhTQzp8ahwTSeH_Ogvmrb8XzfNNkCorUhT6zh515n-pucWvqzjVC7fiDgoksQlyPEMg2L4pH6_nLDTu9KOH21D9vcA/s400/IMG_4638.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvj1eRn63oL8xsym3qKBBSbI7JkZ1aauEnF77DlXOy0OKBonrzq2NIKDAXTUM2jsAXft-iQ9OU6f5vf-V5eobsI1bNWOa6bdBKZhoFqd1iEsh0ktJTX1gB_1KFO_mCTB5kzU87S61hJQ/s1600/IMG_4637.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvj1eRn63oL8xsym3qKBBSbI7JkZ1aauEnF77DlXOy0OKBonrzq2NIKDAXTUM2jsAXft-iQ9OU6f5vf-V5eobsI1bNWOa6bdBKZhoFqd1iEsh0ktJTX1gB_1KFO_mCTB5kzU87S61hJQ/s400/IMG_4637.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
At this stage, I tried it on, decided that it fit just fine, and continued with the same for the other two layers. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
After this, I placed all the layers together, interlining right side out, lining right side in of course, and pinned. All the seams are then stitched through all the layers using a running stitch, preferably as close to the seams as is possible so as to be unseen ideally. I basted all of the top, sleeve and front edges at this stage. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj74aH7XBzrBqD_CCe_zBnaeXbDXnwB_wZWqGqx82GNz3E5lQc9qAB4gL8CFy6enLEuPX73yzKH_ZugyYxAP8ogzDsGaP40Ky6qcGj_MdyidbGOH2SaX50KUW337vEUejs68tXGVPeBng/s1600/IMG_8050.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj74aH7XBzrBqD_CCe_zBnaeXbDXnwB_wZWqGqx82GNz3E5lQc9qAB4gL8CFy6enLEuPX73yzKH_ZugyYxAP8ogzDsGaP40Ky6qcGj_MdyidbGOH2SaX50KUW337vEUejs68tXGVPeBng/s400/IMG_8050.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished back</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Next I worked the eyelets at the front edge. I'm definitely not happy with my eyelets, and since then did a bit more research on YouTube to find some better examples on how to do these. I'm still working on it!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Following this the centre front is bound (I used lambskin).</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3fMn-I3DkHQXxTzFwvfj1snz4YMDec6fCe5aC3gOFG3i6KHvq-chafhXaFOOtn7OGJuFDFG5WpbH2-CdcOTVgSwS3CWH6VA6JhRM6WjM_Te9d8LAblzyYAA5kdv3b8wMIMOnAjMBH4A/s1600/IMG_8048.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3fMn-I3DkHQXxTzFwvfj1snz4YMDec6fCe5aC3gOFG3i6KHvq-chafhXaFOOtn7OGJuFDFG5WpbH2-CdcOTVgSwS3CWH6VA6JhRM6WjM_Te9d8LAblzyYAA5kdv3b8wMIMOnAjMBH4A/s400/IMG_8048.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marginal eyelets.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Next it's time to bone it, only on the front panels as this era used light boning. The channels are stitched using a running stitch or a backstitch from the outside, followed by some decorative quilting. Needless to say, as this is a practice one, I skipped the quilting! The boning is then inserted.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The last stage is to bind the raw edges. I used my lovely soft lambskin for this again, and learned to mitre the corners for a smarter finish. Still some improvements to go there! Interestingly, this pattern uses the bottom binding as a channel for a drawcord, which is useful. Some sources suggest the same for the neck-line binding, and it you have difficulty with it gaping this is a great option!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4IolPjVeM53vhZlReGoozmxordAIQqLhBx5C45h0PrdVMj4Sn7ZDSy31lWTmuppz2QaFt3rLvLozwHJi-dYVlwxeUeHf-7_E6NUWa4TJAAaog_W-FlwHGmvj5iK-gFhtOfzWmFq69jw/s1600/IMG_8046.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4IolPjVeM53vhZlReGoozmxordAIQqLhBx5C45h0PrdVMj4Sn7ZDSy31lWTmuppz2QaFt3rLvLozwHJi-dYVlwxeUeHf-7_E6NUWa4TJAAaog_W-FlwHGmvj5iK-gFhtOfzWmFq69jw/s400/IMG_8046.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lining, showing boning channels and gussets</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMNWrgWFztaIICjkYzVUmwNR_4nhvldM-k17dX69FEHdHL3Q-EN7W-T3_TowjXHYVsTzoM5v4I-cb9Z8xsSU7Pjn9O73iyxNQuBXlBeXYUGiNBrFwtABVBdq12D4Skb16yJxmgl42bog/s1600/IMG_8047.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMNWrgWFztaIICjkYzVUmwNR_4nhvldM-k17dX69FEHdHL3Q-EN7W-T3_TowjXHYVsTzoM5v4I-cb9Z8xsSU7Pjn9O73iyxNQuBXlBeXYUGiNBrFwtABVBdq12D4Skb16yJxmgl42bog/s400/IMG_8047.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Outside finished</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO1P_sWruD7pqfkLENIDroBdsTK0LkrAwsLaMLk5sA6ChgKFKvKtrG8yJ2iPdQLYbGNdUdCZL1J3YE9a7vmk5AcWWDOpOz0oMgx5esVzpMvN_El7RCwx90SkvtZ9CpbfR1opeitOaOBw/s1600/IMG_8049.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO1P_sWruD7pqfkLENIDroBdsTK0LkrAwsLaMLk5sA6ChgKFKvKtrG8yJ2iPdQLYbGNdUdCZL1J3YE9a7vmk5AcWWDOpOz0oMgx5esVzpMvN_El7RCwx90SkvtZ9CpbfR1opeitOaOBw/s400/IMG_8049.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boning channels</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Altogether, I'm happy with this project! It's a little snug, so next time I'd make a mockup in a larger cup size, but the general dimensions are good otherwise. The sewing was simple and quick, and they seem like they'll keep me in the right silhouette for hours without any discomfort.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI0HBRFy52NjufvEUKNyJEY9BPDbNt9GtWPQalLfQCeGaHmDsvEtdCZVusLTp78uvSaKUBwhBmEwvzr3o7hkbeYOS5YUc6-V0MK5LJ_6TeyTMamrbpbSivpC9aBwKWSJWu5592YZy1dA/s1600/IMG_8051.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI0HBRFy52NjufvEUKNyJEY9BPDbNt9GtWPQalLfQCeGaHmDsvEtdCZVusLTp78uvSaKUBwhBmEwvzr3o7hkbeYOS5YUc6-V0MK5LJ_6TeyTMamrbpbSivpC9aBwKWSJWu5592YZy1dA/s640/IMG_8051.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Completed short stays</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
</div>
<b><i>Just for interests sake:</i></b><br />
<ul>
<li>Silk Dupioni in blush pink (outer layer) $0</li>
<li>White linen (lining) $0</li>
<li>White cotton duck canvas (interlining) $0</li>
<li>Artificial whale boning $0</li>
<li>White lambskin leather (binding) $0</li>
<li>White cotton thread $0</li>
<li>Natural cotton lacing $0</li>
<li>Blush pink embroidery cotton (external boning channels) $0</li>
<li>E pattern $10</li>
</ul>
<div>
TOTAL $10.00</div>
</div>
<br />
<br />Eloise Faithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16298695662174061689noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4839190847338641280.post-23182123229612137512017-06-26T19:40:00.000-07:002018-02-16T21:32:03.057-08:00Tiptoeing into Regency<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNzYXeAkFXW_tmVDSL_t_zaNHfnBBUYU9wY9b6op_UAp9vkmg3yhhFvnwtpdaSh80QD-sR1IKGBSVYI4CDjZzPw7kHIRxwcyBh8crymnysSpxndOI16UZf5JTclDfZFroKL6j0Nrvpaw/s1600/Screen+Shot+2017-06-27+at+2.19.18+pm.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="529" data-original-width="486" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNzYXeAkFXW_tmVDSL_t_zaNHfnBBUYU9wY9b6op_UAp9vkmg3yhhFvnwtpdaSh80QD-sR1IKGBSVYI4CDjZzPw7kHIRxwcyBh8crymnysSpxndOI16UZf5JTclDfZFroKL6j0Nrvpaw/s400/Screen+Shot+2017-06-27+at+2.19.18+pm.png" width="366" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mr Darcy and Elisabeth Bennet from <i>Pride and Prejudice</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Ah yes, that familiar sullen look paired with the cherubic smile in <i>Pride and Predudice</i>. It's probably the first era that comes to mind when I think about costume dramas. I watched the six-part series when I was about 16, and there will never be another Mrs Bennet or Mr Colins for me.<br />
<br />
I was feeling quite content with my progress through the 18th century. Sure, it needed quite a bit more tweaking and I'm sure would horrify those truly Historically Accurate seamstresses out there. But for me, I had a fairly good grasp of the development of the main fashions from the 1720s though to 1785. Now it was time for a new era.<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
Logic pointed to Regency. This should be fun! Time to start researching further beyond simply a higher waistline and no panniers.<br />
<br />
At this stage, I had gathered that stays changed from the heavily boned to the lighter boned and then by this stage into the almost un-boned. It seemed that there was a drastic change from "as fake as possible" of the 18th century to the classical, girlish, wispy look of the regency period. With this came the redundancy of the boning as the waist/torso was not really seen below the under-bust. The point of stays was simply to lift and separate the bust, while doing nothing much else beyond possibly pulling the shoulders back for the proper posture.<br />
<br />
I decided to start into the decade where the style was most exaggerated: 1810. Waistline was the highest it could possibly go, and dresses were gauzy and delicate.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinPahcyRNxXLCKx6QNBqKLq_x6Hv4np1aAHNC4w__JhUoo3LTzZLwb-ns_FSUpxwAdCNFACT-X92AhGP70eKhAMfAtnlxmGnefv9tTqtcDWfpxGnqlQCs2DQzsj2LCkVqkgIf6MfDbBg/s1600/Screen+Shot+2017-06-27+at+2.31.24+pm.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="832" data-original-width="483" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinPahcyRNxXLCKx6QNBqKLq_x6Hv4np1aAHNC4w__JhUoo3LTzZLwb-ns_FSUpxwAdCNFACT-X92AhGP70eKhAMfAtnlxmGnefv9tTqtcDWfpxGnqlQCs2DQzsj2LCkVqkgIf6MfDbBg/s400/Screen+Shot+2017-06-27+at+2.31.24+pm.png" width="231" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/womans-dress-49954" target="_blank">1810 gown in MFA, Boston</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
As I like to sew from the skin out in order to a) make things easier for me and b) ensure everything looks the closest I can come to authentic ;-) these were the items I needed to sew:<br />
<div>
<ol>
<li>A new shift. Regency dresses had short sleeves, so my 18th century shift with elbow-length sleeves wouldn't be suitable.</li>
<li>A new pair of stays. I was narrowing it down to a set of 'short stays' or jumps or something like it. I don't know if short stays were authentic, and they were probably more like around the 1795 period, but whatever. ;-)</li>
<li>A petticoat. You know how they used gorgeously floaty gauzy cottons? Well they are see-through. Apparently there were any number of newspaper satires drawn showing the difference between the 5 layers of the Georgian vs. see-through Regency!</li>
<li>The dress. </li>
<li>Some kind of bonnet</li>
<li>New shoes in a simple slipper style</li>
</ol>
<div>
So that should all keep me busy for quite some time! </div>
<br /></div>
Eloise Faithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16298695662174061689noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4839190847338641280.post-62479775811194331792017-06-14T19:40:00.000-07:002018-02-16T21:30:57.295-08:00Silk Taffeta Petticoat (and jacket shhh)<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQTwv_sb4Zy9jexycBrM8XBecta-8YaCYC1IHzwruQSbWMdtz74J0CJS_ITF5wKxPUJnnKMbTDGiVT1GDRcQbNprpQiQ1v-05OlqNovF3xa-san4CVHTEscZIxSnt2wBVDGAoWSq5GKA/s1600/IMG_8016.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQTwv_sb4Zy9jexycBrM8XBecta-8YaCYC1IHzwruQSbWMdtz74J0CJS_ITF5wKxPUJnnKMbTDGiVT1GDRcQbNprpQiQ1v-05OlqNovF3xa-san4CVHTEscZIxSnt2wBVDGAoWSq5GKA/s320/IMG_8016.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fabrics...?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Fabrics are another unknown piece of the puzzle. I knew the main differences between polyester and natural fibres, and that some are blends of the two. I didn't know much about what fabric were used for which by which class and so on. As was evident from the fact I made a robe a l'anglaise from linen. (The petticoat at least is Historically Accurate as linen petticoats are common)<br />
<br />
I'm sure the women at my favourite fabric store (<a href="http://www.thefabricstore.co.nz/" target="_blank">The Fabric Store</a>, oddly enough) must have thought me very strange, moving back and forwards through their little shop and fingering dozens and dozens of different fabrics. It gave me quite a good idea of what kind of fabric actually feels like, and drapes like. In the process, I decided that silk is a ridiculous option for 18th century clothing, being so drapey and fine, and that silk taffeta is gorgeous and much better for the job. Since then, I have learned more about the different qualities of silk that were available: 17th-early 18th century silks were much thicker and stiffer, like our upholstery-quality silks (note that for the next time I visit my favourite upholstery fabric store - I know they have some silk curtain fabric at $50/m...) and that later in the 18th century, more like the 1870s, the silk became finer and more like the tissue-thin quality we find today. Also, I had not come across the fact that interlining is my friend, which of course changes the way that silk acts.<br />
<br />
I have always loved stripes. Especially 3cm stripes. I found a short piece of a red self-stripe (if that's what its' called...must research that too...) in a floaty silk and decided it would make a perfect little jacket. I just pictured a vibrant red petticoat to go with it, and a silk-taffeta would be just the thing. 3m of this, a little red linen for lining and I was off home to find a pattern...<br />
<br />
I decided to use the same little 1770s jacket pattern I had used in the past by JP Ryan (see my <a href="http://linenandlining.blogspot.co.nz/p/patterns-review.html" target="_blank">pattern review </a>page). Probably a mistake as I hadn't been all that happy with the last one. In fact, this is probably the worst mistake a sewer can make: repeat the same mistakes instead of learning from them! The jacket is made up with modern bag-lining technique (another term I have to research to make sure I'm using correctly). The sleeves were sideways as I had matched seams instead of notches, nothing sat straight, and it was next to impossible to get on without getting a cramp in my neck. This, I found, is a common injury for getting into costume unaided!<br />
<br />
I pulled out the sleeves, reset them, and it still doesn't fit properly. I'm embarrassed to even include the photo, but I guess that's what this blog it about...the process. So there's one or two below just to chuckle at. The whole thing was hand-sewn for some stupid reason, using a gorgeous red silk thread. What a waste of time...<br />
<br />
As for the petticoat, what a joy. No pattern of course - I just do the same (18th c?) knife/box pleat combo each time. One thing I do need to figure out is the tying strategies. I do the whole tie-the-front-round-the-back-and-the-back-round-the-front thing. But I have 2 questions: How do you get it to stay tight when you're doing it yourself, and What do you do about the knot bulges? Put that onto the research list...<br />
<br />
For some reason I had a picture of a wide flounce around the bottom of the petticoat. I used every single mm of fabric, figured out how much I actually needed to go around the circumference (don't ask me how I worked it out) and came up with a width that would use up the remaining fabric. Or maybe I worked out the width to cut it out, and then figured out what size box pleats I could make using that length of fabric... Nobody understands the mind of a historical sewer...I thought box-pleats seemed to be the thing to do (again, don't ask me why) and that a little flounce at the top would be about right. I hand sewed the whole thing, including the side seams, as it was so nice to use. The flounce was pinked top and bottom - first time pinking, and I'm sure it's addictive!<br />
<br />
And finally I decided it was much too long and that pin tucks would be just the thing, so did three of these, also by hand. I just adore them, they are so sweet.<br />
<br />
Below are the photos of the finished result. I'll slot the jacket photo in between in the hopes that no-one notices it.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNVDcUGRuNhU4RrO1vY2wGrFLnrMTGY44GoXG1pUqkF-aKN0ZHWqlBniSA7wba1KnYMje6-c2DMULN_O9HsL1o_IrENAcnKFS4U7hE0aubaIfj6JYsdhNTvuiDgMxBO1T8EwPCbaF-dA/s1600/IMG_7993.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNVDcUGRuNhU4RrO1vY2wGrFLnrMTGY44GoXG1pUqkF-aKN0ZHWqlBniSA7wba1KnYMje6-c2DMULN_O9HsL1o_IrENAcnKFS4U7hE0aubaIfj6JYsdhNTvuiDgMxBO1T8EwPCbaF-dA/s400/IMG_7993.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red silk taffeta petticoat</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0rjcrSgwUbDk04pxRTjk7uWnEg10Zt2IuUJZVVrNOILw1aZvmMMKWocLXYEYgo6sDGpvcAMtxVJirGdOB3irb2nVb4w9Le2hy7tmMwbmZ8DU8mRTdnmy76rqTNPo4GxM-h5QIlebEXQ/s1600/IMG_8000.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0rjcrSgwUbDk04pxRTjk7uWnEg10Zt2IuUJZVVrNOILw1aZvmMMKWocLXYEYgo6sDGpvcAMtxVJirGdOB3irb2nVb4w9Le2hy7tmMwbmZ8DU8mRTdnmy76rqTNPo4GxM-h5QIlebEXQ/s320/IMG_8000.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">jacket</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyu9s994DSLBxscTuphOUgttUM1BJB2e5zsnapAfUKdb4WGgK09_nB3xSrI9NEn4FqjgUawAxXten2Txr32_4K9ZHB920AjZmXz8Jz15yT8pzk7qbeH8zlCFB2CDwDMvKH2_52voD6UQ/s1600/IMG_7996.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyu9s994DSLBxscTuphOUgttUM1BJB2e5zsnapAfUKdb4WGgK09_nB3xSrI9NEn4FqjgUawAxXten2Txr32_4K9ZHB920AjZmXz8Jz15yT8pzk7qbeH8zlCFB2CDwDMvKH2_52voD6UQ/s400/IMG_7996.JPG" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flounce and pin tuck detail</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<i><b>Just for interest's sake:</b></i><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><i>Jacket silk 50cm $15</i></li>
<li><i>Petticoat silk taffeta 3m $60</i></li>
<li><i>Red linen 50cm $10</i></li>
<li><i>Red silk thread $7</i></li>
<li><i>TOTAL $92</i></li>
</ul>
<br />
<i><br /></i>
<i>Future notes: </i><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><i>Rip apart the jacket.</i></li>
<li><i>Learn how to mock up this jacket pattern properly, and how to set sleeves traditionally.</i></li>
<li><i>Interline the silk.</i></li>
<li><i>Just one or two minor points to learn from...</i></li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />Eloise Faithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16298695662174061689noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4839190847338641280.post-84410799901787408442017-06-10T17:49:00.002-07:002018-02-16T21:30:05.480-08:00Silk 18th Century Petticoat in Blush<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyFhhZ_iTBCMaYjri7d1pU2KF4hfIjFNKLiB07pfGMXO62UI1BuytN8HuBsT5uf5vjXb-8V4S4N59FA5rf5AgDqzA9M3VWfvYLOSeyyvIjQF7nn0a8C52wNvqdiEJqr59hJuQOKT0ndQ/s1600/IMG_1540.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyFhhZ_iTBCMaYjri7d1pU2KF4hfIjFNKLiB07pfGMXO62UI1BuytN8HuBsT5uf5vjXb-8V4S4N59FA5rf5AgDqzA9M3VWfvYLOSeyyvIjQF7nn0a8C52wNvqdiEJqr59hJuQOKT0ndQ/s400/IMG_1540.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My holiday morning coffee</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This is how I like to holiday. It's camping...of a sort.<br />
<br />
Queen sized bed on it's own folding base, side table, duvet and pillows. Gosh, even my favourite linen bolster pillow! Coffee, a good lantern and some books. You can't see the shag-pile rug or the gold LED light hanging above the bed.<br />
<br />
I admit, we do take rather a lot camping. It's my husband's fault. He insists we take our horse float. It means that nothing needs to be tied down or water-proofed. You just chuck it in and shut the ramp. I've built a shelf that fits at the mid-height, leaving us twice as much storage area. Bikes and surfboards under, suitcases and bedding on top. The rug went in to protect a surfboard, and the rest...well, there was room...so why not?<br />
<br />
Well, camping is all fun and games for the kids, but sometimes it gets a little boring for me. I had brought along with me a couple of big hard-backs of garments from the Met. Museum - just your average holiday reading. I was reading up on 18th century clothing and underwear. But the natural outcome was the desire to start creating. So I went in search of a fabric store.<br />
<br />
In fact, there was a fabric store and I was able to purchase a couple of fabrics, a sprigged cotton which I intended to use on a Regency dress at some time, and a blush silk. Sure, it was only dupioni silk, but for all that purists say it's sub-standard and barely fit for lining, I like it. I love it's slubbiness and it's lustre. I'll say it's an under-petticoat, and just enjoy the fact I'm wearing a silk petticoat, should that ever actually happen. Highly unlikely. For now, it's an 18th century silk petticoat that just sits in my cupboard and looks pretty. :-)<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYU_gy724o5XZdtvh8WB51m-UxQFVj8sLfLVBCobxzjpUhW1rIt4a7boQjOv4iZX24o8v1XTbVa8cK9vCF938_oHAo8cESq0AbMuMDSzadRlQoOPymIkAfikwUOCv1nvAOLBaTzAx-0w/s1600/IMG_4616.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYU_gy724o5XZdtvh8WB51m-UxQFVj8sLfLVBCobxzjpUhW1rIt4a7boQjOv4iZX24o8v1XTbVa8cK9vCF938_oHAo8cESq0AbMuMDSzadRlQoOPymIkAfikwUOCv1nvAOLBaTzAx-0w/s400/IMG_4616.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First, stitch up side selvage seams, then stitch (running) 10" pocket openings.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7s0kTyTMbf0YG11sWFErX3HH9IqMVPzTBa3lBBDZm7YqHbwSkwOws-VAvCdV9NP1aCgIalji7c9BJ9V3lzK29Tq_KtZeZ8RidIFVY1Yvo4tPNUPLMotiRWimyZHgGNEK03c7WYDukfg/s1600/IMG_4618+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7s0kTyTMbf0YG11sWFErX3HH9IqMVPzTBa3lBBDZm7YqHbwSkwOws-VAvCdV9NP1aCgIalji7c9BJ9V3lzK29Tq_KtZeZ8RidIFVY1Yvo4tPNUPLMotiRWimyZHgGNEK03c7WYDukfg/s400/IMG_4618+%25281%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pin up 1" knife pleats with large box pleat at centre front <br />
and inverted box at centre back.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjme2O3QjJxMTLHTRlwx9WPr9N_-B-FZQHRpyT3FcMbW08Gs3v3dUNDJ4ceoPRm7h2u48kFzSseSaGOAXUHBcYOOwKNB8tzeIQ4mODOgedeJSO2siOXZ_pM2Dlfn092hfsIaJgIR54hyphenhyphenQ/s1600/IMG_4622+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjme2O3QjJxMTLHTRlwx9WPr9N_-B-FZQHRpyT3FcMbW08Gs3v3dUNDJ4ceoPRm7h2u48kFzSseSaGOAXUHBcYOOwKNB8tzeIQ4mODOgedeJSO2siOXZ_pM2Dlfn092hfsIaJgIR54hyphenhyphenQ/s400/IMG_4622+%25281%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cut waistband from self-fabric and pleat to match width, leaving SA at edge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSHocHqcal_pb-H_HjfDk4SplnRzNKq86zgO2rnz6SdAP9alnvXCR51whqWpXoFGadRCjQ4mI4i7pkIa5upA4Bbw2f8oihyphenhyphenq6FO02z47femx_Ra4wOCePcwoBLGOrKMzEOqjuCr2Fx7w/s1600/IMG_4627+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSHocHqcal_pb-H_HjfDk4SplnRzNKq86zgO2rnz6SdAP9alnvXCR51whqWpXoFGadRCjQ4mI4i7pkIa5upA4Bbw2f8oihyphenhyphenq6FO02z47femx_Ra4wOCePcwoBLGOrKMzEOqjuCr2Fx7w/s400/IMG_4627+%25281%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sew waistband to pleats using backstitch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhCalBWz7QS3joMuc0FH2yE4_DIzTbAcPLpndHXwE2PEXgAsPdspZgqXtglrghyU50hFaG0gQwms9YJxZwp-dGICwvhC9h8Vn7aRY3qcwJ4PmGmdttdUmdlURD6QrbH6HlBa70DXhwng/s1600/IMG_4624.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhCalBWz7QS3joMuc0FH2yE4_DIzTbAcPLpndHXwE2PEXgAsPdspZgqXtglrghyU50hFaG0gQwms9YJxZwp-dGICwvhC9h8Vn7aRY3qcwJ4PmGmdttdUmdlURD6QrbH6HlBa70DXhwng/s400/IMG_4624.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Outside of waistband before whipped to inside</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj73McIe6zqic785t3LBweF25uTtw-NTk_EwIoiIWf8ARvGKeLgBhrHFkBIqWrTHoOV9LbKYYTYH-jfl6gyh7ND-LFmDBzqvhkYTcrcyYr-GMKgbce4KYS76qTLxAlaVA8taAoLq8cDrg/s1600/IMG_7942.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj73McIe6zqic785t3LBweF25uTtw-NTk_EwIoiIWf8ARvGKeLgBhrHFkBIqWrTHoOV9LbKYYTYH-jfl6gyh7ND-LFmDBzqvhkYTcrcyYr-GMKgbce4KYS76qTLxAlaVA8taAoLq8cDrg/s640/IMG_7942.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished waistband on petticoat</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiRKuwnQvL_7ut8c9wzTT7QcO4-kPb-2TD_Bjkle_Nse0CvtbGZHxL5oQeCS4tLO2iMC3Y21tJzEZcyV-QijaBvUJewkjxoxznREfoACOOujD_3ZpCdK6lfFXIiDTWo0-Jfo8SBztKrA/s1600/IMG_7941.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiRKuwnQvL_7ut8c9wzTT7QcO4-kPb-2TD_Bjkle_Nse0CvtbGZHxL5oQeCS4tLO2iMC3Y21tJzEZcyV-QijaBvUJewkjxoxznREfoACOOujD_3ZpCdK6lfFXIiDTWo0-Jfo8SBztKrA/s640/IMG_7941.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bottom hemmed, tucks added by hand, and lace edging</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div>
Yep, the lace is probably terrible. I'll have to have a look further into that: lace is certainly something we 21st century women know nothing about! My daughter (16) doesn't even know what it is. For now, it's staying. When it has an actual costume to compliment, I will find out what kind of lace is appropriate and I think it will require a whole post. </div>
Eloise Faithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16298695662174061689noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4839190847338641280.post-54214966235950782112017-06-08T17:44:00.000-07:002018-02-16T21:27:00.355-08:00Grey Linen Full-Boned StaysThere is one fundamental problem with period correct back-lacing stays: Ones inability to get in or out of them. Have any of you felt that panic well up inside you when you realise you are STUCK? (I'm brought to mind of an experience of my brother who had to get a friend to cut him out of a wetsuit once!) It's not a pleasant experience.<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
As I have discovered, most costume pieces need several fittings throughout the sewing process, and of course the correct underwear must be worn, for obvious reasons. Most of my sewing time is during the day, while the family is at work and school, so there is no one to lace me up.<br />
<br />
I realised I needed to make a front-and-back lacing set of stays. These are still period correct, for lower classes, especially those who do the lacing up rather than having a lacer-upper! Ie lower class.<br />
<br />
I started to take my floral set of stays apart, but decided not to in the end for a couple of reasons: 1) I wanted to keep a flat-fronted set, and 2) I wanted to make a better set of stays.<br />
<br />
Off I went to my <i>favourite</i> fabric shop in Wellington: <a href="http://www.thefabricstore.co.nz/" target="_blank">The Fabric Store</a>, and bought 1/2 a metre of a silver grey linen, as well as a gorgeous white kid-skin (I assume - or maybe lamb-skin? Very fine either way). Oh, that leather! All the way home I felt like I was in a saddlery shop where I just sniff and sniff and sniff that lovely leathery smell. It's gorgeous! (It's about a year later and I still get the remnants of that skin down and sniff it.) I cut this into 3cm strips for binding the edges.<br />
<br />
I also bought up all that <a href="http://www.mademarioncraft.co.nz/" target="_blank">Made on Marion</a> had in stock of artificial whalebone. I hoped it would be enough! It's so nicely rounded and smooth, rather than the often recommended cable ties. I had to use silk thread as I couldn't get grey linen thread in NZ (plus, it's too course to use in a machine).<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh70jr69pRN37-m8HZIGX5aFqYQGOYAXJUVGdfTUdDrfErK6UZbNrDL2t8Sa8n1EJtAsbDrLE-0NyOLptvhkcdiv1MGHbbYZn16asj93SnMc1gR8V8JAXKz7Uy53rP9BAqmrX9CC8ngOA/s1600/IMG_7924.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh70jr69pRN37-m8HZIGX5aFqYQGOYAXJUVGdfTUdDrfErK6UZbNrDL2t8Sa8n1EJtAsbDrLE-0NyOLptvhkcdiv1MGHbbYZn16asj93SnMc1gR8V8JAXKz7Uy53rP9BAqmrX9CC8ngOA/s320/IMG_7924.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grey light to mid-weight linen</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDEYdoX6qiyCWr4EaXGIFHfOEnyLU0HLTiP21njNJNxlN_zgqm9BZPrGvRteIwH0FFOF1ju6T_9A6FA5EjOZjDcNo807YkUS5UTw-fWIrD4cBEq0ABaGJSu0Nh3FMdGq8Eg9RQBs2Wlg/s1600/IMG_7928.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDEYdoX6qiyCWr4EaXGIFHfOEnyLU0HLTiP21njNJNxlN_zgqm9BZPrGvRteIwH0FFOF1ju6T_9A6FA5EjOZjDcNo807YkUS5UTw-fWIrD4cBEq0ABaGJSu0Nh3FMdGq8Eg9RQBs2Wlg/s320/IMG_7928.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kid-skin</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
I used the same stays pattern, simply sewing the centre edges up the same as either back edge instead of sewing them together. I decided to machine stitch the majority of the stays. They needed to be nice and strong, and I didn't have years to do all those boning channels.<br />
<br />
The process was a bit like this:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Cut out 2x centre back, centre front, side back, side front, side from main fabric (grey linen), lining fabric (white linen), and interlining fabric (white cotton duck canvas).</li>
<li>Sew main fabric and interlining pieces together around the edge. Machine baste or running stitch.</li>
<li>Sew above pieces together to make a right and a left side of stays. Machine or backstitch. </li>
<li>Mark out boning channels, beginning each piece with the edge closest to front. Stitch through above pieces as one piece. Extend into tabs where possible. Include folded edges of centre front and centre back into the boning lines. Machine or backstitch.</li>
<li>Insert boning. I was meant to use steel at the lead edge of each stay piece. This was more difficult to locate than it was worth having, so I double-boned these.</li>
<li>Pin lining to inside of stays.</li>
<li>Line up edge of binding 3mm from edge of stays, sew about 1 cm from edge or stays, stitch using a backstitch. </li>
<li>Fold binding over edges and whip stitch to lining inside. I used a straight whipstitch, about 2mm apart. As we all know, the tabs are the hardest of all parts of the stays to do. I found that leather was good to work with: stretches well around the corners, and doesn't need folding to stitch down. Just use a thimble!</li>
<li>Insert eyelets. I used white metal grommets as I had not manned up and learned to hand-sew eyelets. Maybe next time...</li>
</ul>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGrOxIMOZk0ak9rmt2mJseBejInkpp6tPZIb2TvhXESJBlVsXbfTYMzHMDW9pdOV4EYcr8e7mdysKvpUa2YVA5sCG8cNaqhDs9LyfiWuLG1rnTsciJvWJe-D3UOrU_xEGzlQuXvL7kfg/s1600/IMG_7936.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGrOxIMOZk0ak9rmt2mJseBejInkpp6tPZIb2TvhXESJBlVsXbfTYMzHMDW9pdOV4EYcr8e7mdysKvpUa2YVA5sCG8cNaqhDs9LyfiWuLG1rnTsciJvWJe-D3UOrU_xEGzlQuXvL7kfg/s400/IMG_7936.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Binding and inside lining</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEDAuhgklMoNHz2HMHd390Zm6M6p-htFERFH-YwfkriNrdXS181LC0k7-8fKh9aND2CT2gkAK0pfNkcBkml3oz7X5azVDy2eRC-6F7go1fRSRnRtRtIYptJ8p-uFP1iQAXOOAhwmOQ5A/s1600/IMG_7934.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEDAuhgklMoNHz2HMHd390Zm6M6p-htFERFH-YwfkriNrdXS181LC0k7-8fKh9aND2CT2gkAK0pfNkcBkml3oz7X5azVDy2eRC-6F7go1fRSRnRtRtIYptJ8p-uFP1iQAXOOAhwmOQ5A/s400/IMG_7934.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Outside of tabs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg73D68qbtBTvwyRaSHKkesWm0rzUnkaFTy60DBhvz-W9UB1BGCkPCGgs8zxENu5xoecUaI8T_tvY0iTPRWUWosaMWNVlugVcBIYtUMHu3Hx7soTH3SLOYTI4gstBKTs36_uxfXfcDwg/s1600/IMG_7935.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg73D68qbtBTvwyRaSHKkesWm0rzUnkaFTy60DBhvz-W9UB1BGCkPCGgs8zxENu5xoecUaI8T_tvY0iTPRWUWosaMWNVlugVcBIYtUMHu3Hx7soTH3SLOYTI4gstBKTs36_uxfXfcDwg/s400/IMG_7935.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back spiral lacing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7Id0PWxSH-dW_D2FQ_Uk21n3R-vbDmLbKaPEyI5e-agnxYvYgnSfj1z0aZ4l1QkMR-JN5vYE7aQQGlFwaxkSTP9PygJKqTsiL4kTWSNqqUhJlqxtSDE261D3cQnNLKuKWSytp2gGt4A/s1600/IMG_7937.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7Id0PWxSH-dW_D2FQ_Uk21n3R-vbDmLbKaPEyI5e-agnxYvYgnSfj1z0aZ4l1QkMR-JN5vYE7aQQGlFwaxkSTP9PygJKqTsiL4kTWSNqqUhJlqxtSDE261D3cQnNLKuKWSytp2gGt4A/s400/IMG_7937.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back spiral lacing inside</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjw6iZVmE81xdr_3qCAaw4RFeUFuy-6mpehPO4yGCD8mAbMtG3In6tlUB7D4ncpHFayHniOUwoTCNjkqWWtKS13vXbPazAA8f6HnFtF2MLguHSlrJNoZ5LG_owlrrv_tCFZU3gn-9jXQ/s1600/IMG_7939.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjw6iZVmE81xdr_3qCAaw4RFeUFuy-6mpehPO4yGCD8mAbMtG3In6tlUB7D4ncpHFayHniOUwoTCNjkqWWtKS13vXbPazAA8f6HnFtF2MLguHSlrJNoZ5LG_owlrrv_tCFZU3gn-9jXQ/s400/IMG_7939.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front cross laced. <br />
I don't know what I did that: spiral is easier!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-Fy2VFKaSN4kPajWPIvvkFCf5pHzyi9Z653pI0MjUvItNcOswbxzui0IgOdMnNTQWrtNsPNaAc7aMkmTjfGj5yEqV4AMk5_ZQq0NVB-krnJEKOtY7rrWv8rhsss0yJSKCEe6mmcempQ/s1600/IMG_7940.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-Fy2VFKaSN4kPajWPIvvkFCf5pHzyi9Z653pI0MjUvItNcOswbxzui0IgOdMnNTQWrtNsPNaAc7aMkmTjfGj5yEqV4AMk5_ZQq0NVB-krnJEKOtY7rrWv8rhsss0yJSKCEe6mmcempQ/s400/IMG_7940.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I added some shoulder straps to help get them on.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div>
I'm not up to <a href="http://www.couturemayah.info/englightbluestays.html" target="_blank">this incredible stage</a> in my stay making, but I'm happy with this more accurate pair. Now, a year or so down the road, I find them too large. I'd like to say it's because I've been going to the gym and am now more toned. It's probably a mix of this, my boobs shrinking as a result, and the (more likely) fact that stays stretch. I find that the waist is too loose, as I have to lace both back and front up totally closed, and still my breasts seem to sink down rather than up when wearing them ;-) and my waist curves out far too comfortably to be a good cone shape. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<i>Just for interest's sake:</i></div>
<div>
<ul>
<li><i>Grey linen $14</i></li>
<li><i>White linen $15</i></li>
<li><i>White duck $0</i></li>
<li><i>White leather $20 (I only used a fraction of it)</i></li>
<li><i>Boning $30?? (no idea really) </i></li>
<li><i>Grommets $10</i></li>
<li><i>Grey silk thread $7</i></li>
<li><i>Cotton tie for lacing $2</i></li>
</ul>
<div>
<i>TOTAL $98 NZ</i></div>
</div>
<div>
<i><br /></i></div>
<div>
<i>Future plans:</i></div>
<div>
<i>I won't change this item, but my next, improved item of this type will be a set of half-boned stays, more suited to the 1770-90s, in a smaller size and probably using a mixture of steel and plastic boning. The eyelets will be hand-worked and the lacing will all be spiral, with more ease room for adjusting. It will also have integrated straps. Hehe, I must watch this space! I feel like I've learned enough historical information now to consider myself moving past the beginner stage, but I'm sure that will be quickly changed once I move to a different decade of history!</i></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
Eloise Faithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16298695662174061689noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4839190847338641280.post-86068891675696268942017-06-05T23:06:00.003-07:002018-02-16T21:21:15.668-08:00Chill Up My Spine over an 8-year old postNow that was weird.<br />
<br />
I'm trying to connect with other historical sewers in my area, and have spent some time looking through <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/" target="_blank">The Dreamstress' website</a>. She lives in my area of Wellington and so far I have not been able to get in contact with her - there doesn't seem to be many in our little New Zealand, so I have discovered!<br />
<br />
Do you see anything familiar about the below two links??<br />
<br />
<a href="http://thedreamstress.com/2009/08/the-affair-of-the-diamond-necklace/" target="_blank">This one</a> by The Dreamstress<br />
<br />
<a href="http://linenandlining.blogspot.co.nz/2017/04/the-inspiration.html" target="_blank">and this one?</a> my first post I think (scroll to near the bottom)<br />
<br />
Yes, my husband and I featured in her blog nearly 10 years ago, LONG before I even considered actually sewing a dress like it. We are also in the third picture as well - I can easily spot my husband with his overgrown red curls and gold coat!<br />
<br />
I certainly hope that we are considered <i>"Gorgeous, inspiration-worthy rental costumes"</i> rather than the ones she had to <i>"refrain from being a costume snark"</i>! I know we were certainly <i>"awkward and self-conscious of how to act"</i>! Yep, Leimomi has a very good understanding of how it is for us debutants.<br />
<br />
It certainly gives one a funny feeling when you open a page and there you are!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiPVno7TmOaPSvi1zjFnVaz2Gvora2M9ZJGTrNbTSQyDd6thHVtn8Ue_Sv8wYfaWA-WRg7VA2UIFqZiBIM3B0U4VNusfQVcKXlAUxP0ope_Wk0jonnYkB5FA1bMyVobPF8KtDfKjaCyQ/s1600/1924066_1186363908799_2036561_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="453" data-original-width="604" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiPVno7TmOaPSvi1zjFnVaz2Gvora2M9ZJGTrNbTSQyDd6thHVtn8Ue_Sv8wYfaWA-WRg7VA2UIFqZiBIM3B0U4VNusfQVcKXlAUxP0ope_Wk0jonnYkB5FA1bMyVobPF8KtDfKjaCyQ/s400/1924066_1186363908799_2036561_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What a lot of lace!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Eloise Faithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16298695662174061689noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4839190847338641280.post-91933624593103527602017-06-05T04:22:00.002-07:002018-02-16T21:37:05.974-08:00A Blue Cotton 1770s Italian GownAbout this time I started watching Poldark.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjRg4afCG1YfkCTgaGmOFCw-UHvPlgpyIJ2pt-byMabFfIoN3CO4j0JyIGEhWFNj9-1MTKSf1aPRzLTkNHZ-VX6OfQYG6fnpgQXBWM7vgaNIXJLFYE7vLShnuRCNKsi4tJ4tjf78gkaw/s1600/Screen+Shot+2017-06-05+at+10.51.06+pm.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="630" data-original-width="421" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjRg4afCG1YfkCTgaGmOFCw-UHvPlgpyIJ2pt-byMabFfIoN3CO4j0JyIGEhWFNj9-1MTKSf1aPRzLTkNHZ-VX6OfQYG6fnpgQXBWM7vgaNIXJLFYE7vLShnuRCNKsi4tJ4tjf78gkaw/s320/Screen+Shot+2017-06-05+at+10.51.06+pm.png" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elizabeth from Poldark</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Isn't it funny that thing that happens when you buy a new car. Suddenly it seems like every second car on the street is the same a yours. You start noticing them at every set of traffic lights!<br />
<br />
This is what happened to me. Once I started historical sewing for real, I started taking notice of it all around me. Poldark, for example. In the first season, I watched it for the story and the scenery. In the second season, I watched it for the costumes.<br />
<br />
Online again I went, this time to find a <a href="https://www.etsy.com/nz/listing/90698951/fig-leaf-patterns-101-gown-c1771-1785?ref=shop_home_active_1" target="_blank">closed-front gown</a>. These seem to be something that came more into fashion (at least amongst the gentry) later in the 18th century - more like 1780s. This time I found a really nice pattern company called <a href="http://www.figleafpatterns.com/index.html" target="_blank">Fig Leaf</a>. I love the illustration first on the pattern, and then the fact that the pattern was taken from an extensive study of an extant gown for the use of a museum also gave me confidence. I try my best to do as much research as my limited resources allow prior to purchasing patterns, as it always costs so much to have them sent here. Its terribly disappointing to find out once it arrives that it's not authentic in its sewing techniques or pattern.<br />
<br />
As I had several other things going on in my life right at that moment, the pattern stayed unopened for quite some time. However, browsing through...a local but nationwide store that I shall not name...I saw the perfect fabric and had to purchase it. It was an upholstery-weight cotton, in a pale sky blue, with a cream and beige floral and bird pattern on it. I had heard that cotton wasn't used until after this time due to laws, but I'd also read that no-one actually obeyed these laws anyway, so cotton was my new best friend. I purchased 9.5 metres of it, and this sat in glorious righteousness in my sewing corner for a couple of months until I felt I could justify starting a new project.<br />
<br />
Isn't it always the way? I gleefully got out the pattern, cut it out, started working out my mock-up pieces to cut out on my calico...and found that I had 2 of one pattern sheet, and none of another. It happened to be the one with about 6 pieces on it! Grind to a halt.<br />
<br />
I frantically emailed the company, and they were very quick to reply and print off the correct page and send it to me. Phew! It had cost me $51 plus shipping to get it here so I was a bit concerned! Restart.<br />
<br />
I am disappointed to say, I didn't take any during photos. I don't know why, but I guess we all do it. I'm terrible and have to have the background uncluttered and neat, with no kids schoolbags and unwashed dishes to be seen, so photographing isn't always straightforward!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqVcwB48BhAt5d6cB_j2K7Ei18FPom_gmvAGMs_ND-1dGbkspyoO0UxgDsiMDD3mu8wpWARS6zKTGh3Dba5AqNIFH6e98HO1uDT9dGsOR3szyJEQ48bbOoTw8qqZWRpVJZL-M-Ve0nvA/s1600/IMG_7908.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqVcwB48BhAt5d6cB_j2K7Ei18FPom_gmvAGMs_ND-1dGbkspyoO0UxgDsiMDD3mu8wpWARS6zKTGh3Dba5AqNIFH6e98HO1uDT9dGsOR3szyJEQ48bbOoTw8qqZWRpVJZL-M-Ve0nvA/s400/IMG_7908.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I am pretty proud of my pattern matching. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgye9jgeVxRhEIh6Ubd1ao-JGbPu1XfM8MPs_SY9V7l6R_pFmTBGDntut0y-56FBowx0uqUn_BK8oBVXc2yxRWT_qmy_VoGsz4-vgs4g_tXiL0zCDB3B2GCtpl86at5FIgGSmZMyoB41Q/s1600/IMG_7909.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgye9jgeVxRhEIh6Ubd1ao-JGbPu1XfM8MPs_SY9V7l6R_pFmTBGDntut0y-56FBowx0uqUn_BK8oBVXc2yxRWT_qmy_VoGsz4-vgs4g_tXiL0zCDB3B2GCtpl86at5FIgGSmZMyoB41Q/s400/IMG_7909.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pinked sleeve trim: used no fray check...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrIgfD_AuPEF61OpyCeF7J-uIQPTcRZcpyMtwWWAfNhf9wmv8bvVbvPDu2llCzGvYfbLbdG1tO1OdOaoGa8NjMwjBEndW62C-SrYlYvwpzqtPa-itKQdHAHT8SaWvjp7t9HE-sCoi-dg/s1600/IMG_7910.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrIgfD_AuPEF61OpyCeF7J-uIQPTcRZcpyMtwWWAfNhf9wmv8bvVbvPDu2llCzGvYfbLbdG1tO1OdOaoGa8NjMwjBEndW62C-SrYlYvwpzqtPa-itKQdHAHT8SaWvjp7t9HE-sCoi-dg/s400/IMG_7910.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pinked neck trim: used fray check. Lesson learned!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8EJCNeYuvSAA7kmffqZPKSL00bSfKAvLPJ-82vQTyoMfBY4azOt8k7xG3H_SDpEPEDSZrtkJwhTcCZ_C-yveBoznT9J6zHQ4QVgai7TX8xNOtwqXf27vo-dwDSHJDbXrk_29i9YMYYw/s1600/IMG_7912.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8EJCNeYuvSAA7kmffqZPKSL00bSfKAvLPJ-82vQTyoMfBY4azOt8k7xG3H_SDpEPEDSZrtkJwhTcCZ_C-yveBoznT9J6zHQ4QVgai7TX8xNOtwqXf27vo-dwDSHJDbXrk_29i9YMYYw/s640/IMG_7912.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Centre back pleats. Boned and stab stitched. Love that back.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZNQRMpVJTKnIEzotoZvPd17dfPYUEetgsapkeRXSVNawzkycuhFuw-DvFtorc2O0ZLPv0TKhMhY9EjIXiqArhV6PBl_rhmfV0j5hySohEjp3N6W1xQcPfEYywKjJj1kGlftwYKL9VmQ/s1600/IMG_7913.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZNQRMpVJTKnIEzotoZvPd17dfPYUEetgsapkeRXSVNawzkycuhFuw-DvFtorc2O0ZLPv0TKhMhY9EjIXiqArhV6PBl_rhmfV0j5hySohEjp3N6W1xQcPfEYywKjJj1kGlftwYKL9VmQ/s400/IMG_7913.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside centre back. Pattern designer suggested alternate finish <br />
but I like the tidiness of how I whipped the lining down afterwards.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikS4NUW8axX5j7MtBhgPdRBa3yq7sQ6AP04yjlAhUwGULxqJ941lYoLVD8yqobEX7tzt4XqcugKoUvL4HXwG3FaNuOZkpVdJzFH24ACxM_QoXXxi5QNY7vFaMfZs68e0TjE4IvpA55Sw/s1600/IMG_7915.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikS4NUW8axX5j7MtBhgPdRBa3yq7sQ6AP04yjlAhUwGULxqJ941lYoLVD8yqobEX7tzt4XqcugKoUvL4HXwG3FaNuOZkpVdJzFH24ACxM_QoXXxi5QNY7vFaMfZs68e0TjE4IvpA55Sw/s400/IMG_7915.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hook and eye closure. No, not brass, but nearly correct.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE4EdDwYu8Jm33fuCA2kfPVGhzFEY9LauLIxhf510VOsIEbvWhmGOdXArkwgJ_iL095tpKRBaFUekLhjHomBtuK9Q5kQFeiupnD0e6V15fFFXffXEnJhO7GyYkMxjLUWKYehL-bxbcTQ/s1600/IMG_7916.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE4EdDwYu8Jm33fuCA2kfPVGhzFEY9LauLIxhf510VOsIEbvWhmGOdXArkwgJ_iL095tpKRBaFUekLhjHomBtuK9Q5kQFeiupnD0e6V15fFFXffXEnJhO7GyYkMxjLUWKYehL-bxbcTQ/s400/IMG_7916.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back neck. And sleeve seams are not finished, which is correct.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_qgnSGQOxOqTBsxzn8qBAc34A1DvFDSLpoI0MrslvJnZ6gt1xmCZhbN8Ja8ifG5ZUdv13YdsJ0F1jwRdTx2B73bhekUe1xFIOmarqBGdczzIV-bUmZEpNxEL2YHxddMA0egDF_rNMJA/s1600/IMG_7918.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_qgnSGQOxOqTBsxzn8qBAc34A1DvFDSLpoI0MrslvJnZ6gt1xmCZhbN8Ja8ifG5ZUdv13YdsJ0F1jwRdTx2B73bhekUe1xFIOmarqBGdczzIV-bUmZEpNxEL2YHxddMA0egDF_rNMJA/s640/IMG_7918.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There is a LOT of fabric in the petticoat: 4.5m from memory.<br />
Very heavy!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I've reviewed the pattern, and for the most part it was excellent. I think the first pattern I used helped me understand the process, and next time I use the pattern, I will use some of the more accurate techniques that are described throughout the pattern as an option.<br />
<br />
The fabric was very heavy, though the pattern author assures me that it is more accurate to use this weight. Elsewhere I have read that the silks became more and more refined, so that by this stage (1780) they were the feather-weight silk that we see mostly today. I think a good compromise would be an upholstery-weight silk, and I have my eye on some for the next time I sew this particular gown.<br />
<br />
For this, the 'practice' round, I sewed the long, main seams with machine. This was the dress that wore my fingers completely out, and I finally had to learn to use the thimble. I read that thimbles are a main item in a seamstress's kit, and I now well-believe it. It's not fun when the thread end of the needle pierces your finger repeatedly!!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL1OZ_o8vMO4nuZ4Z8sjNscCog9583MCPY09HIK9FGKb8obo45-vSvhLmBchQgAdKz63sRAcjzsRclHs7Ut4hkI42edNhi9eSrFCwXzQ-qPtSXPzvwnxQ5FJq-1U4sSm8jivnVD7bFWQ/s1600/dress_Fotor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="656" data-original-width="336" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL1OZ_o8vMO4nuZ4Z8sjNscCog9583MCPY09HIK9FGKb8obo45-vSvhLmBchQgAdKz63sRAcjzsRclHs7Ut4hkI42edNhi9eSrFCwXzQ-qPtSXPzvwnxQ5FJq-1U4sSm8jivnVD7bFWQ/s640/dress_Fotor.jpg" width="326" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Final fitting</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Here is a very poor photo of the dress. I will take the next available opportunity to get all the sewing details pictured and uploaded, as it's such a special garment to me. And I love the 'polonaise' style of skirt, though I believe it's not just the skirt-style that makes an authentic polonaise, but the sort of inverted centre front opening which is wider at the waist and meets at the chest. Pointless information, but I'm sure will be useful at some point!<br />
<br />
nb I now know this is an Italian gown, worn retroussee (puffed).<br />
<br />
<i><b>Just for interest's sake:</b></i><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><i>Pattern $60.00 including shipping </i></li>
<li><i>5m cotton for gown (I actually only used 3.5m @ 150cm wide) $105</i></li>
<li><i>4.5m cotton for petticoat (I actually only used 3.6m, for an ultra-full petticoat!) $94.50</i></li>
<li><i>1m lining $27.00</i></li>
<li><i>Fitting muslin $3.00</i></li>
<li><i>Cotton thread $5.00</i></li>
<li><i>Plastic boning $2.00</i></li>
<li><i>Hooks and Eyes $3.00</i></li>
</ul>
<i>Total <b>$300.00</b> (I'd rather not have known this)</i><br />
<br />Eloise Faithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16298695662174061689noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4839190847338641280.post-36781440304262889712017-06-05T03:29:00.001-07:002018-02-16T21:12:00.945-08:00A Curtain Carico JacketWhat girl can resist ordering that extra item when you buy online? I mean, you've already got to pay shipping for one item, why not just throw in that other that you just loved the look of?<br />
<br />
I was guilty of this when I purchased my first pattern. Twice over, actually, as I believe I bought three patterns at the same time. The first two I have already shared with you: the stays and the Robe a l'Anglaise. The third pattern I purchased was J.P. Ryan's <i>A Fine Collection of 18th Century Jackets for undress wear.</i> It sounded so special with a name like that that I had to have it!<br />
<br />
I made View B, which was described: "has a long, full skirt, open front, stomacher and cuffed sleeves, as worn in the 1760s." I will review it on my <a href="http://linenandlining.blogspot.co.nz/p/patterns-review.html" target="_blank">Pattern Review</a> page.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRtRaJBtOuRRZ_Ps5TOW6uJtH4MEX-qzqjb6qbREsjECuaxVVaVVGYLXtjoYCDAzLTG0bFLLltuBarvIqfsZVw8cs6pdbeY3m5RuF0YQrp1_8eZhoImw2M_xSK_4jOj5Px82kw1J-XyA/s1600/blog2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRtRaJBtOuRRZ_Ps5TOW6uJtH4MEX-qzqjb6qbREsjECuaxVVaVVGYLXtjoYCDAzLTG0bFLLltuBarvIqfsZVw8cs6pdbeY3m5RuF0YQrp1_8eZhoImw2M_xSK_4jOj5Px82kw1J-XyA/s400/blog2.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
The fitting muslin I made up didn't seem to need many adjustments besides the usual lengthening of the front/side/back by 3.5cm. In the end, the fit of the final jacket isn't quite right anyway - almost too snug under arms - and so perhaps I needed to make further adjustments, however perhaps the lack of fit is in fact just how an 18th century garment fits. I have read that a woman's posture at this time was to have shoulder blades virtually touching and that is certainly not how we normally stand these days. Also, sleeves fitted snugly under your arms anyway in the 18th century. These days we have plenty of room for moving as we do, well, move. The fit perhaps of a woman's clothing destined for life on a farm or laundry room might have a slightly different cut. In fact, from what I read, many women involved in these active and energetic chores would just strip off their gown and do the work in stays and petticoat. Sounds sensible to me!<br />
<br />
I had recently made curtains for my living room, a lovely creamy linen in a bright burgundy and green floral pattern. I decided to use this for the main fabric of the jacket, and line it with the left-over pink linen from my English gown. The inside of the burgundy flower on the main fabric is just the same shade of pink as the linen, so my artistic side was quite pleased with the result. I planned to pair it up with the pink linen petticoat that I had made for the English gown, and there's nothing that my eye enjoys more than looking at colours that match! As there were limited off-cuts of the floral linen, I decided to cut the jacket to the shorter basque cutting line, possibly more suitable to the 1770s. However the cuffs certainly date it to the 1750-60s so I will stick that that as my main era.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPsXfhMJUARryj7MtyeiUOepxW-l_7o06zDmW7MAWijyprEhFDl8dcoTuUzJDL7yfDV0ARn8GTI6JNjoC95LX6dyhIQ4N8iSk78Q4hSjnzAjW2vI4LRAB-S884LBPpv4mW2VbjZoQJLw/s1600/blog3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPsXfhMJUARryj7MtyeiUOepxW-l_7o06zDmW7MAWijyprEhFDl8dcoTuUzJDL7yfDV0ARn8GTI6JNjoC95LX6dyhIQ4N8iSk78Q4hSjnzAjW2vI4LRAB-S884LBPpv4mW2VbjZoQJLw/s400/blog3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
I sewed the pattern up on the machine - as I have mentioned before, when trying a new pattern out I don't intend to waste valuable time and blood on it! The pattern seemed to use mainly modern techniques: the self and lining (including the sleeves) sewn up separately and then the sewn together right sides together and turn right-side out. The wrist seam allowances were turned inside and cuffs were sewn into the sleeve ends.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrbl6kqHZc7PNSvAMhf8Bj_tAXThbM43T0ptqkb69fPwRKSrEryLW2yjssxSLtDuWyWu1QBhVe_YhHHM_KgP07LzXwV01TxyOohvE5bJvXNn_v31poe8qZCzTY2OA55MtGqdRy3fnC1g/s1600/IMG_7903.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrbl6kqHZc7PNSvAMhf8Bj_tAXThbM43T0ptqkb69fPwRKSrEryLW2yjssxSLtDuWyWu1QBhVe_YhHHM_KgP07LzXwV01TxyOohvE5bJvXNn_v31poe8qZCzTY2OA55MtGqdRy3fnC1g/s400/IMG_7903.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cute little cuffs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0U7Qpn36RDVTHN-Xjer3mW4v1S20rB1bU_yxHNFcDcfN0CDhnxxPdKg0AM7b6_vCH2Ggbrgbv86-yxvOHEb3TAZ7cIURIl1iA0uDBnk73Sgav9DXRFG0ylbY_NSMsbo-vUfGS2t5tAQ/s1600/IMG_7901.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0U7Qpn36RDVTHN-Xjer3mW4v1S20rB1bU_yxHNFcDcfN0CDhnxxPdKg0AM7b6_vCH2Ggbrgbv86-yxvOHEb3TAZ7cIURIl1iA0uDBnk73Sgav9DXRFG0ylbY_NSMsbo-vUfGS2t5tAQ/s400/IMG_7901.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside lacing strip</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I top-stitched all the vertical seams with a dark burgundy to match the flower on the linen pattern, then purchased some self-cover buttons for the front. The pattern called for the cord to lace up around the buttons, however I must have got the wrong buttons or something as there was no way that the lacing was going to stay put. Instead, I sewed up two 3 cm strips of linen, boned both sides of the strip and inserted grommets down between them. As this was a 'practice', I hold with the same theory with hand-sewn eyelets as extensive hand sewing! This lacing strip I sewed into the front edges of the jacket and the lacing is inserted between jacket and lacing strips. The buttons are now just for show of course, but it looks smarter.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrZmPqSczS4jaV6lUop0EQ5yF8K8IjwZvVy3GnCBEb5Zc8BbYAyutOpRKIypfwM2_8CfTZjTY8Ol_bA_4KUCu4M4dRwmNyX4zE4ypWFaN_PTf0fRO9tWv2K99jDWNw_O8MiPgCz9ACPQ/s1600/blog4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrZmPqSczS4jaV6lUop0EQ5yF8K8IjwZvVy3GnCBEb5Zc8BbYAyutOpRKIypfwM2_8CfTZjTY8Ol_bA_4KUCu4M4dRwmNyX4zE4ypWFaN_PTf0fRO9tWv2K99jDWNw_O8MiPgCz9ACPQ/s400/blog4.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
For the stomacher, the pattern designed it to be sewn up using two pieces of interlining, with boning channels sewn into them. The lining and self are then sewn to it and it's flipped right side out. Bones are inserted and it is hand-sewn shut. This leaves it nice and tidy with no visible boning channels.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirZPqsQHP7cT_ymxaRgX6Gb_dgxIeHdOlHhon5zD9BO2W2gl7t6yhvSQZGnuEkgIo42zwT40CaWBXg-vPk_m5Q5-jq74aWHlOxrV8gHsIYNGb3aI5MNnKUKSiVVeVqpOi2IroOkY6x4w/s1600/IMG_7902.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirZPqsQHP7cT_ymxaRgX6Gb_dgxIeHdOlHhon5zD9BO2W2gl7t6yhvSQZGnuEkgIo42zwT40CaWBXg-vPk_m5Q5-jq74aWHlOxrV8gHsIYNGb3aI5MNnKUKSiVVeVqpOi2IroOkY6x4w/s400/IMG_7902.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Partly boned stomacher</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The jacket is nice and smart, with a snug fit, and it looks fabulous with a fichu ticket in. It's not the most comfortable to wear, but possibly that was the fault of my 21st century sense of comfort! It looks very smart with the pink petticoat and a bumroll. I imagine it would suit a woman who is the wife of a store owner or captain of a ship, and she would wear it while out buying from the markets or visiting her sister in the morning.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3G29o1-gAHk1S8pMNyQH-wTj2tYpet18sI8qA7viopZjSdcfkDNbIVT3jA63mqflCWA2UyLdnx4RiBwxQcA1SPXCmvew4m8qH0-IEYEdiVDfswGIRIKs8avGA4xMg8sYsx3s-wTW4uw/s1600/blog1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1003" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3G29o1-gAHk1S8pMNyQH-wTj2tYpet18sI8qA7viopZjSdcfkDNbIVT3jA63mqflCWA2UyLdnx4RiBwxQcA1SPXCmvew4m8qH0-IEYEdiVDfswGIRIKs8avGA4xMg8sYsx3s-wTW4uw/s400/blog1.jpg" width="250" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd9LaJAc_1dYZGqWBMGNHhvw-voEFSuQZqhEg0XTfWZHY7O70L8V9t-v1zfe3Z0zd0Bz15Zzt3dTCo4VJRPA3Ajwzm1tS0hEu7AwffeTg-qwgU8TOppxzPDFWtSug2JefQyJNAgsE9kA/s1600/blog4a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd9LaJAc_1dYZGqWBMGNHhvw-voEFSuQZqhEg0XTfWZHY7O70L8V9t-v1zfe3Z0zd0Bz15Zzt3dTCo4VJRPA3Ajwzm1tS0hEu7AwffeTg-qwgU8TOppxzPDFWtSug2JefQyJNAgsE9kA/s400/blog4a.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<i><b><br /></b></i>
<i><b>Just for interests' sake:</b></i><br />
Cost of Jacket<br />
Pattern: $35<br />
1m upholstery/curtain linen: $0<br />
1m medium weight pink linen: $0<br />
Poly thread: $0<br />
Self-cover buttons x10: $7<br />
Boning x4: $.75<br />
<br />
TOTAL: NZD$42.75<br />
<br />Eloise Faithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16298695662174061689noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4839190847338641280.post-67441102174757187332017-06-01T15:45:00.003-07:002018-02-16T21:10:41.381-08:001700-1800 Men's Shirt<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWdTCPSDG9bdwvZHroeXczPNkfrcuds3-wVQ6GPBsIakXUbIN70wsqXwv3VQY4B4vpQ5XGmlvbYOW-XEMyxqbD2nti2Um6GdxkgQeZ4bwxd79ro5Ph6TtmvG10Qq8yWjvxAuExxDK4-w/s1600/IMG_7833.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWdTCPSDG9bdwvZHroeXczPNkfrcuds3-wVQ6GPBsIakXUbIN70wsqXwv3VQY4B4vpQ5XGmlvbYOW-XEMyxqbD2nti2Um6GdxkgQeZ4bwxd79ro5Ph6TtmvG10Qq8yWjvxAuExxDK4-w/s400/IMG_7833.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pure White Linen</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This is the point that I love.<br />
<br />
Nothing has gone wrong, nothing is cut too short or puckered or shrunk unevenly or accidentally the wrong way around.<br />
<br />
The bubble has not been burst.<br />
<br />
After finishing what I considered to be a complete 18th century woman's costume, I was on to making a man's costume next. In this instance, everything went according to plan, mostly because I had already made all the mistakes with a practice shirt. So here is how I made my first linen men's shirt.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7jJoKh6Uyh_qIEAwcpJjXUDdIqocrrTU1RmJNDoDLEEVGVZEIHQm1K_QXg8WkW-IQZE1FYKa4AuddgMLEkspbQGQ-Xj2XCB4iZrAI3ED1ZILaLmQ7-Pl7S6SklopbsXmprDQRGCoEfQ/s1600/shirt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="717" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7jJoKh6Uyh_qIEAwcpJjXUDdIqocrrTU1RmJNDoDLEEVGVZEIHQm1K_QXg8WkW-IQZE1FYKa4AuddgMLEkspbQGQ-Xj2XCB4iZrAI3ED1ZILaLmQ7-Pl7S6SklopbsXmprDQRGCoEfQ/s320/shirt.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Men's 18th Century Linen Shirt and Stock</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Before I begin, I'll give my husband credit: My husband is the best husband in the world. Sorry ladies. It's true. He let me make him this shirt, and lets face it, he was earning BIG brownie points. My husband is a gardener. He has no interest in historical clothing, nor dressing it in. He runs up and down mountains and does marathons and goes to the gym at 5:30am...he is not, however, like many of the delightful spouses I see on blog who allow themselves to be costumified. So yay Mr Persson. You are a saint.<br />
<br />
I used <a href="http://www.marquise.de/en/1700/howto/maenner/18hemd.shtml" target="_blank">this</a> pattern, which I found good (I'll review it in my <a href="http://linenandlining.blogspot.co.nz/p/patterns-review.html" target="_blank">Pattern Review</a> page). I had to decide on sizing for my own 6'1" 87kg man, as well as the fact that nowadays linen is usually 140cm wide, not the narrow width described in the pattern. The point of the pattern is to minimise waste, so this is what I came up with. You could find a better way, even cutting it across the <u>width</u> and sewing up shoulder seam, which in all honesty will only be about 5-10cm long! I made the cuffs and collar slightly wider than the pattern recommended, as it seemed nicer to my eye. That may be historically incorrect, but as this shirt pattern hardly changed in 200 years, I'm sure I can find a period in which cuffs and collars were wider!<br />
<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><i>Light-mid-weight linen, 2.2m</i></li>
<li><i>Linen thread</i></li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
<b>Cut:</b><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>1 main body @ 200-220cm x 75cm approx. (measure shoulder to mid-thigh length x2) <b><u>or</u></b> <i>2 @ 1.1m and 1.2m x 75cm</i></li>
<li>2 sleeves @ 65cm long x 70cm wide approx. (if cutting main body in one strip, remaining width of fabric should be about 65cm)</li>
<li>2 underarm + 2 neck gussets 8x8cm</li>
<li>2 shoulder pieces 18x7cm</li>
<li>1 chest heart about 5x5cm</li>
<li>1 collar 18cm wide x 48cm (this is neck circumference + 1cm seam allowance + 5cm)</li>
<li>2 slit gussets 6x6cm</li>
<li>2 cuffs 10cm wide x 25cm (this is wrist circumference + 1cm seam allowance + 2cm)</li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
<i>The only things to really check are:</i><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><i>Length to mid thigh</i></li>
<li><i>Circumference of wrist and neck</i></li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
<b>The basic construction is as follows:</b><br />
<i>All seams are 1cm and finished flat-felled.</i><br />
<br />
Sleeves:<br />
Insert your underarm gusset (I've included instructions <a href="http://linenandlining.blogspot.co.nz/p/sleeve-gusset.html" target="_blank">here</a>), and sew up under-arm seam from gusset to wrist, leaving 8cm open at wrist end. Double turn a narrow hem at wrist opening and stitch using a running stitch. <a href="https://darlingregency.blogspot.co.nz/2017/03/1790-1810-shift.html" target="_blank">Here's a great article</a> with a picture of the ordering of flat felling a sleeve gusset to avoid puckering. And <a href="http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/bc/5f/1a/bc5f1a951dc1943f1ead2a62ebd2f19f.jpg" target="_blank">here is another</a>.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY0_pj0GpK7ulLR4sF1TWS1GATHFP-W57KoZaUlYJWpC8IVXmLcVS8Tzdtp7rkeZsizuZlGFHHp5PAZpxf9Od6W4JGqPdTfdRjV10l2tlUhisIrVKXTBEJac07f2cL8ZH3CTvEU26kzg/s1600/IMG_7848.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY0_pj0GpK7ulLR4sF1TWS1GATHFP-W57KoZaUlYJWpC8IVXmLcVS8Tzdtp7rkeZsizuZlGFHHp5PAZpxf9Od6W4JGqPdTfdRjV10l2tlUhisIrVKXTBEJac07f2cL8ZH3CTvEU26kzg/s400/IMG_7848.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gusset inserted</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzHO9SN7KHy18JoMZbcoaLgmibXccAjqdM2XG30HI2htoTvCO90U4PTl6eRzuvN8FBcnWY230n25Q8RESlc5CRbfBoI6NHyZ58ydmx_fZeOgJWORZhre15saQVrf6YKnuEHy2HbHO0_g/s1600/IMG_7853.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzHO9SN7KHy18JoMZbcoaLgmibXccAjqdM2XG30HI2htoTvCO90U4PTl6eRzuvN8FBcnWY230n25Q8RESlc5CRbfBoI6NHyZ58ydmx_fZeOgJWORZhre15saQVrf6YKnuEHy2HbHO0_g/s400/IMG_7853.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hemmed cuff opening on finished shirt</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Cuff:<br />
Fold cuff in half lengthwise, sew narrow seams with a running stitch, clip, turn, press long side seam allowances inside.<br />
Gather the wrist end of the sleeve until it matches the finished length of the cuff (23cm in this case). I wanted quite a formal look, so pleated the wrist in this shirt. Insert this seam allowance into the cuff, and pin firmly, but be careful not to catch inside of cuff.<br />
From the outside, sew using a whip stitch. I sew my whips straight across, one for each pleat. If gathering, just make sure that you whip in small stitches to ensure your gathers lie smoothly.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj035IPLPBmCZImFpLVWsFz_kUhh-DbHlPpYKhscqpRrlOyg3lW1Bp7bSI7yJmBqa-9H6z-OhKNweMMbu8lkRpRUYxVKKl9bgf7Q2kEOzKObe8JskuA5b1l4FaLZ_qeay29SocWKXlsVQ/s1600/IMG_7849.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj035IPLPBmCZImFpLVWsFz_kUhh-DbHlPpYKhscqpRrlOyg3lW1Bp7bSI7yJmBqa-9H6z-OhKNweMMbu8lkRpRUYxVKKl9bgf7Q2kEOzKObe8JskuA5b1l4FaLZ_qeay29SocWKXlsVQ/s400/IMG_7849.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Outside - pleats whipped to cuff.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Then turn inside out, and pin the inside of cuff to pleats. Whip the cuff down, making sure that the stitches fall on the cuff side of the outside seam or they will show on the outside!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIgxwtUNeo6bLMRLTz9UEzZA3qhiI8P1_vySvr2DuzQciQ_uyYEO8uWpJ1JYjchs8vpZNcpL7b6-7nAyo-9VfRwmPYtnkD70Vwmh9iS3J9SL1QGwbymM8V6E4qY01pxfmSgwKcOo8fvA/s1600/IMG_7850.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIgxwtUNeo6bLMRLTz9UEzZA3qhiI8P1_vySvr2DuzQciQ_uyYEO8uWpJ1JYjchs8vpZNcpL7b6-7nAyo-9VfRwmPYtnkD70Vwmh9iS3J9SL1QGwbymM8V6E4qY01pxfmSgwKcOo8fvA/s400/IMG_7850.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Whipped down inside of cuffs - not so neat this time</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
To complete your sleeves, sew on a button (I did dorset buttons, using <a href="https://www.craftstylish.com/item/42688/how-to-make-dorset-buttons/page/all" target="_blank">this tutorial</a> - they look very smart! NB I only used about 30cm or less for each, not the 2m stated! Maybe I did it wrong...) and a corresponding button-hole. One of the great tips I got is to complete each area - sleeves, cuffs, body - separately if possible as it will save you having a whole great garment on your lap, especially useful when sewing a huge dress!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKvI6Iq7fYAT9OtdcIIcTtxMKXfVKvlesc8tV2WPi6WBDgzwa_GfZOLx16hI2Fdn7_fWt1GcgdXMQ_S68dpNBLUS5Yb20jC_Adx9JsczXcqDBhs-gtb1nEuxkaPMVq8UvEI68ZXJjvrg/s1600/IMG_7852.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKvI6Iq7fYAT9OtdcIIcTtxMKXfVKvlesc8tV2WPi6WBDgzwa_GfZOLx16hI2Fdn7_fWt1GcgdXMQ_S68dpNBLUS5Yb20jC_Adx9JsczXcqDBhs-gtb1nEuxkaPMVq8UvEI68ZXJjvrg/s400/IMG_7852.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dorset button</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Body:<br />
Fold the main body in half so that the front is about 5-10cm shorter than the back. Mark the shoulder line, as well as the centre front. <i>If you cut the body across the width, sew up the shoulder using a flat felled seam to these same dimensions - 5-10cm from shoulder edge. This will make inserting the shoulder gusset harder, unfortunately.</i><br />
Cut across the shoulder line 25-30cm (larger slit=more gathers. smaller slit=wider shoulder) either side of the centre front, and then cut the chest opening 15cm down the centre front. Double fold a narrow hem (6mm) on chest opening, using a running stitch. Cut out the little heart-shaped piece of linen, fold under the seam allowances and whip to the end of the chest opening. This will strengthen this area that is prone to tearing.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF6wWcwkn7GRH2_huxD7VT0jGXaCUdpqqz1iy_aO1YqRkBM2j4G4swAQpI2XhrKkJ_GekjnQUM78ll0ZhUD6WFzy-ZeCAh76J8CkIkmbsQwZkr1N_CFO-Oqz_QKTJgkpAkZZJprfyl9Q/s1600/IMG_7863.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF6wWcwkn7GRH2_huxD7VT0jGXaCUdpqqz1iy_aO1YqRkBM2j4G4swAQpI2XhrKkJ_GekjnQUM78ll0ZhUD6WFzy-ZeCAh76J8CkIkmbsQwZkr1N_CFO-Oqz_QKTJgkpAkZZJprfyl9Q/s400/IMG_7863.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Its a large heart...but he's got a big heart</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Shoulder gussets:<br />
Cut a 6cm slit lengthways into the middle of the shoulder pieces. Stitch half of the gusset into this slit, either running or backstitch, leaving the other half free to be attached to neck opening.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.marquise.de/de/1700/howto/maenner/hemd_schulterstueck2.jpg" target="_blank">Here</a> is a great photo by Marquis of the process of inserting the shoulder gussets into the shirt.<br />
<br />
Now you will create a larger, rounder neck opening. Sew the free half of the shoulder gusset into the end of the shoulder split, RIGHT side of gusset to WRONG side of shirt. The seam will be on the outside. Flip the gusset onto the outside of the shoulder. Press the seam allowances under and whip the gusset over the top of the shoulder, thus strengthening an area which gets a lot of strain.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSvD-kbzgSU29YVwaR29a9ZPEvPxhj_I-X9l0RlAbrE5gK5wfI99RysVtyz2cuzxWELzHwCUz3Hx2z9B4yj30eVYhl1aBG0tiMd6s-kxZQeCY-XRWmQjogfPM_UFddvYpRT0hcBEpwTg/s1600/IMG_7855.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSvD-kbzgSU29YVwaR29a9ZPEvPxhj_I-X9l0RlAbrE5gK5wfI99RysVtyz2cuzxWELzHwCUz3Hx2z9B4yj30eVYhl1aBG0tiMd6s-kxZQeCY-XRWmQjogfPM_UFddvYpRT0hcBEpwTg/s400/IMG_7855.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gusset finished and whipped down</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Collar:<br />
Follow the same procedure as you have done with your cuffs. Fold collar in half lengthways, sew short ends. Trim, turn and press under long seam allowances. Mark the collar into quarters: this will mark shoulder centres and centre back. Gather neckline, or pleat as I have done, and then insert into the collar.<br />
Whip down first outside, then inside of collar, securing each pleat firmly. I didn't pleat over the shoulder gussets as they were double thickness and I felt lay better that way. If you are gathering, this should be easier and you can gather the entire neckline.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlteJHDRUV-vAi6i8JUgEeElct__Poe8CZhkfAb0wcFPc8sgGfkTcy7spFosT22qoZm2g6de6j0UOiN9ptrAuy3zXfHFlGjzMwvIar5HuvvRxucF-M2f2t4jkmsOQrTMf04hDfYLnyoA/s1600/IMG_7856.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlteJHDRUV-vAi6i8JUgEeElct__Poe8CZhkfAb0wcFPc8sgGfkTcy7spFosT22qoZm2g6de6j0UOiN9ptrAuy3zXfHFlGjzMwvIar5HuvvRxucF-M2f2t4jkmsOQrTMf04hDfYLnyoA/s400/IMG_7856.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Collar inserted</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIM5JJJ6VOZlvcV9fGTfwl2h33wPtfMub3UJgVsLyhTUgPmNAsSCiERMg00Or25dW9P95QTbnk-Rt-re7xood2Woa4KD_ACtHLL35LmVxV9yJTr4ZdsckM0jQkbpDbJAvRXybffPUVAQ/s1600/IMG_7858.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIM5JJJ6VOZlvcV9fGTfwl2h33wPtfMub3UJgVsLyhTUgPmNAsSCiERMg00Or25dW9P95QTbnk-Rt-re7xood2Woa4KD_ACtHLL35LmVxV9yJTr4ZdsckM0jQkbpDbJAvRXybffPUVAQ/s400/IMG_7858.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shoulder gusset detail</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDotZineJgop-jJDnQjRXIvTvLPUV5T-KNjNWZQnW7f5iy026uM87KFGYGZ0w1wPloV7knkPeVdaQlpgLWrX_JLGpq2v_tGtaFfF5KT4tmLMPPx4qScdcOXrEH-dV-2ZJVbChLtbqV3w/s1600/IMG_7857.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDotZineJgop-jJDnQjRXIvTvLPUV5T-KNjNWZQnW7f5iy026uM87KFGYGZ0w1wPloV7knkPeVdaQlpgLWrX_JLGpq2v_tGtaFfF5KT4tmLMPPx4qScdcOXrEH-dV-2ZJVbChLtbqV3w/s640/IMG_7857.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Completed collar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Complete by sewing on 1-2 buttons and corresponding button holes.<br />
<br />
Finish the shirt body:<br />
Mark on the side body 30-35 cm down (I used 32cm) to show where the sleeve will sit. Mark again on the side body approx. 30cm up from the front hem, where the side slit will go to. Sew this seam between these marks, using a running stitch. Finish flat felled.<br />
Double fold a narrow hem on the side splits, using a running stitch. I admit I didn't quite know the procedure for insert the side slits gussets, so these were folded in half to form a triangle and then stitched to the top of the side split.<br />
Double fold a narrow hem and stitch using a running stitch.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWJuXnU2Y_6LrxqNoMe9OOi5IEyMYQM3axSzKo4p4Ij5ESLN-H8PAg-1fo_cAmq4Zvvj7y3XtMAspk_uHTEcAGDot8Df2C23s_-GH_F1EhJfZd6kVqkxvjZ34oJqZ-JZyKAgIKWe4Neg/s1600/IMG_7859.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWJuXnU2Y_6LrxqNoMe9OOi5IEyMYQM3axSzKo4p4Ij5ESLN-H8PAg-1fo_cAmq4Zvvj7y3XtMAspk_uHTEcAGDot8Df2C23s_-GH_F1EhJfZd6kVqkxvjZ34oJqZ-JZyKAgIKWe4Neg/s400/IMG_7859.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Side split and gusset</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Inserting the sleeve:<br />
Gather (or pleat) the top of the sleeve - approximately 10cm - so that it fits into the opening left by the side seam. Pin this into the body and adjust the peats/gathers accordingly. Sew this in using a backstitch, and flat fell.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfXpVs-es0XFm2TWb3-OVXG6YMrx7hyphenhyphenWKLEGP7haToO785wVZph85KUnBRzifjTLSjW4-Kb2Bs6XLCeHDcfBxIhXOKI01r6dskhobFBeY1N3E_nuUoN2mdzrR1KGbjdVBdBAP3Cs7TrQ/s1600/IMG_7860.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfXpVs-es0XFm2TWb3-OVXG6YMrx7hyphenhyphenWKLEGP7haToO785wVZph85KUnBRzifjTLSjW4-Kb2Bs6XLCeHDcfBxIhXOKI01r6dskhobFBeY1N3E_nuUoN2mdzrR1KGbjdVBdBAP3Cs7TrQ/s400/IMG_7860.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sleeve and sleeve gusset inserted</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I found the sleeve head to be messy, so cut a small facing which I stitched over the plates inside. Yes, its a 21st century idea to have neat and tidy insides, but there you go. What can I say?<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvaDr_q3NhKPdXzdtyBeMlqbp_TrtgKlKnsQSpDaivbaORAMG9FzHICDOhLiEgZ5AhaPddRf9xyl0IIqh-6Itr7TKC-qVqjIUKAYNcIBYqbSCpcUE9Bb7avXCxRwiDXXA8azLJ2xjYNg/s1600/IMG_7861.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvaDr_q3NhKPdXzdtyBeMlqbp_TrtgKlKnsQSpDaivbaORAMG9FzHICDOhLiEgZ5AhaPddRf9xyl0IIqh-6Itr7TKC-qVqjIUKAYNcIBYqbSCpcUE9Bb7avXCxRwiDXXA8azLJ2xjYNg/s400/IMG_7861.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside of shoulder pleating</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMHCyOnLdX4aXhd69_QFMi_xN6fcUDhqEu4VHtsZ2bxsgB9GMh5JXW1aKZijTaFps0sflEPbBnHFN4AI_nifhmO-W_lVpu7f1Czhfwc3KvcGmVesSeaNBJWVOIMa9GuHLR9MEcLa-aKA/s1600/IMG_7862.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMHCyOnLdX4aXhd69_QFMi_xN6fcUDhqEu4VHtsZ2bxsgB9GMh5JXW1aKZijTaFps0sflEPbBnHFN4AI_nifhmO-W_lVpu7f1Czhfwc3KvcGmVesSeaNBJWVOIMa9GuHLR9MEcLa-aKA/s400/IMG_7862.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Outside of shoulder pleating</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
And that's about it!<br />
<br />
As always, sewing with linen is a pleasure, as is sewing with linen thread. I didn't wax it, as I'm told I ought to. Perhaps it's just a particularly course linen thread? I don't have anything to compare it to.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwNSjBPn3aV1yPHQPVmBz7A7UkiOvbyhbg-DPHtLel9B_0nfv719GdKUTow57fVbEv_aXiLlIcyTB7XLfsnNCJDD9jjbGEMDl71HGVMSmWKhJ0SPzVSCUXnoXDdSV2sQJjb4bNQw0E9w/s1600/shirt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="717" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwNSjBPn3aV1yPHQPVmBz7A7UkiOvbyhbg-DPHtLel9B_0nfv719GdKUTow57fVbEv_aXiLlIcyTB7XLfsnNCJDD9jjbGEMDl71HGVMSmWKhJ0SPzVSCUXnoXDdSV2sQJjb4bNQw0E9w/s640/shirt.jpg" width="478" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Eloise Faithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16298695662174061689noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4839190847338641280.post-49249565608419840552017-05-02T05:10:00.000-07:002018-02-16T21:10:02.200-08:0018th Century AccessorisingI have finally completed my first entire 18th century costume!<br />
<br />
Gown - check<br />
Underskirt - check<br />
Stays - check<br />
Bumroll - check<br />
Shift - check<br />
<br />
What more is there? Tick that one off and move onto the next period. Regency was it?<br />
<br />
At this point I realised there were a few minor items still missing if I was going to go to the ball. (Who am I kidding - there is no ball!).<br />
<br />
Namely...shoes...stockings...hat...kerchief...er...petticoats...probably jewellery of some description...<br />
<br />
I really enjoyed looking into what else was required for the entire look. Several of the bloggers and websites at the bottom of my blog helped alert me to the possible dress deficiencies, bless.<br />
<br />
<i><u>PETTICOAT</u></i><br />
<br />
The first item to make was a petticoat. I already had the official 'petticoat' as part of the Robe a l'Anglaise pattern. This is what they called underskirts, before the term became underwear, as far as I can tell.<br />
<br />
I grabbed 3 metres of cotton lawn the next time I was in Spotlight. I had read that a thick under-petticoat topped with a thinner second petticoat gives a very nice outline (I should say silhouette - sounds more like I have a history with...well...history), and though my character is English and there is still a duty on imported cotton, somehow I decided I'd managed to get my hand on this lawn and made a petticoat.<br />
<br />
I used the same pattern as the petticoat from the Larkin & Smith gown pattern - 1.5m x the desired length, sewn together a the sides leaving a 10" opening at pockets, knife-pleated the front towards pockets openings and the back towards the centre back. Pleats were about 1" wide, and whatever depth was required to reduce 3m of fabric to my 66cm waist. I made a self-waistband, sewed the pleated petticoat to it in the usual way and attached two cotton tape ties to each panel, each long enough to tie the front panel behind and the back panel in front.<br />
<br />
Just to be clever, I decided that I was put the fabric sideways and have the selvages at the top and bottom. This was because the fabric was 120cm wide and I didn't want to have any more seams to sew than was necessary in order to have the suggested 3m hem. Unfortunately, once I wear the delicious bumroll, the petticoat is barely long enough and certainly not even of course with the extra width at hip and bum! I intend to remedy this with a nice deep ruffle at the hem at some point in the future. At that point I will photograph it for you, should you care to see it. And for future reference, sew the selvages at the sides.<br />
<br />
<i><u>KERCHIEF</u></i><br />
<br />
The kerchief or fichu was the next thing on the agenda. To be perfectly honest, I have no issues whatsoever with showing plenty of décolletage, but there may be times when I don't want the sun on it. Or at least, my character wouldn't of course.<br />
<br />
I decided that white linen was a good option, the cotton lawn being illegal and all at this period (or so some say). I hand sewed it in a triangle, probably not quite large enough in fact. Somehow I forgot my shapes and cut the triangle into two smaller triangles - no idea how - so it has a flat-felled seam down the centre! This doesn't matter at all though. The sides have a very narrow (1/4" total) hem, sewn with a running stitch with linen thread, which I had managed to find on a drive into the city.<br />
<br />
It doesn't quite tuck into my stays tightly, so will require pinning I believe. I'll put that onto the (long) list of items to remake in more suitable dimensions.<br />
<br />
<i><u>STOCKINGS AND SHOES</u></i><br />
<br />
I decided that I would splash out on some items from <a href="http://www.american-duchess.com/" target="_blank">American Duchess</a>. Their footwear is so incredible, and I'm not given to spending huge amounts on my own clothing or hobbies...or I wasn't until now anyway...so I managed to justify it to myself. Not enough to tell my husband about, so possibly not justified really...<br />
<br />
I finally settled on <a href="http://www.american-duchess.com/shoes-18th-century/fraser-18th-century-shoes-ivory" target="_blank">this</a> shoe: simply stunning. I further justified it by claiming I'd wear it with jeans as well, they looked so smart. I added some gorgeous buckles and silk stockings to the cart and felt very pleased with myself.<br />
<br />
Once my box arrived after winging its way more than 13,000km to me, I was delighted. They look fabulous and just complete my costume nicely.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpxz1UtHctMceEu72mCvCaZYwDVvYvtKGJeAoxupRzvPMAPVb6NYnnNhNvEe6825u_4l61HITdeUpiJVWadwmyV0B1DDq8d4_4D8bjg9FxriUne5qIn84gwOCmpYz8l53tCsyIsoV7jA/s1600/stockings_Fotor2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpxz1UtHctMceEu72mCvCaZYwDVvYvtKGJeAoxupRzvPMAPVb6NYnnNhNvEe6825u_4l61HITdeUpiJVWadwmyV0B1DDq8d4_4D8bjg9FxriUne5qIn84gwOCmpYz8l53tCsyIsoV7jA/s320/stockings_Fotor2.jpg" width="188" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Silk stockings...yum</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-GgJCdgrUsvQQTbSKvEfzcKkklqoK46ibn-LU4Z2xNLZs3HMaNkdlQOGIYApXYAd-ANG4Tis-nw72csUFxuzLm_R-vnCc70Q4DipmnyL5aGZQRaQaUJxBDimHicTRBT9WiA_9mVxUqw/s1600/shoes_Fotor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-GgJCdgrUsvQQTbSKvEfzcKkklqoK46ibn-LU4Z2xNLZs3HMaNkdlQOGIYApXYAd-ANG4Tis-nw72csUFxuzLm_R-vnCc70Q4DipmnyL5aGZQRaQaUJxBDimHicTRBT9WiA_9mVxUqw/s320/shoes_Fotor.jpg" width="276" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and Fraser shoes...how fabulous!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
However, BETWEEN ordering and their arrival, I have to admit that the dollar conversion, shipping, along with our hideous duties on imported goods gave me rather a headache only remedied with several quick glasses of a strong red. Over NZ$500 those darlings ended up costing me. So I better damn well wear them!<br />
<br />
<i><u>HAT</u></i><br />
<i><br /></i>
Well, you've got me there. It seems that women wore caps. Or mobs. Especially married ones, as I definitely was. Back onto the web I went to find a cap pattern (see my pattern page).<br />
<br />
The pattern was dated 1740 -1820, so seems to fit the period of my costume. I decided to make the Round Eared Cap, I think. It must be made with white linen, according to the pattern.<br />
<br />
I don't know if I have a big head (my husband would probably say so!), but if I still had long hair, I've no idea how that cap would fit over my hair! Maybe I needed to make the cap with a larger back portion. Anyway, I learned the new skill of rolled hems and gathered rolled hems, both of which a really useful stitches to use, I've discovered.<br />
<br />
Suffice to say, the cap looks ridiculous and you won't see a photo of me wearing it.<br />
<br />
Ok, this is as much as you'll ever see. I hope it's extremely grainy.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUEMYFAFuknptViR-bt_84j1bH3dizHhcF4hbdNBTvKLw1umUFKiYxN2i04dkl03SF1ex2s9LSbH6REPzqMZSN7-uU-JDiccly6pjMaTNlIeTBVLZ57Ep-j46nDpUJrYyzQQyIosxeXQ/s1600/cap_Fotor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUEMYFAFuknptViR-bt_84j1bH3dizHhcF4hbdNBTvKLw1umUFKiYxN2i04dkl03SF1ex2s9LSbH6REPzqMZSN7-uU-JDiccly6pjMaTNlIeTBVLZ57Ep-j46nDpUJrYyzQQyIosxeXQ/s1600/cap_Fotor.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So my costume is now complete. I COULD make a pocket, but that just seems a bit practical. There's no need to go crazy now.</div>
<br />Eloise Faithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16298695662174061689noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4839190847338641280.post-65860331497628385802017-04-30T01:11:00.000-07:002018-02-16T21:07:33.691-08:00A Robe a l'Anglaise at last<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZlQoKEijxZUY7WjFsOViMyTWPgq6824R5ITynOVNJumcUD7Gyn0dGM2vqWquAO4N24aE0CKcomaHhnFONgRazwHLJBEcfdIwkXtDU-8TTbddQf4ydLW0gG6_lKojJJ_M4kpFoBzSpFg/s1600/IMG_0788.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZlQoKEijxZUY7WjFsOViMyTWPgq6824R5ITynOVNJumcUD7Gyn0dGM2vqWquAO4N24aE0CKcomaHhnFONgRazwHLJBEcfdIwkXtDU-8TTbddQf4ydLW0gG6_lKojJJ_M4kpFoBzSpFg/s400/IMG_0788.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pink linen Robe a l'Anglaise</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I would like to say, hand on heart, God bless Larkin and Smith.<br />
<br />
Whoever you are and wherever you live in this world, may the sun shine on you and may you see your grandchildren's grandchildren.<br />
<br />
I had decided to base the first dress pattern I made roughly mid-18th century. The gown pattern I landed on was the 18th Century English Gown, a 1760 - 1770s open front gown with a stomacher. I was a little scared of the French style of gown with it's saque back, and I loved the look of the back in the enfourreau style.<br />
<br />
I first checked out how much fabric I would need. It seemed a huge amount at the time - about 7 metres from memory! I actually ended up with about 2 metres left over, while still doing all the recommended fullness, so I guess it was because it was a plain fabric and no need to match patterns?<br />
<br />
The fabric I chose was a medium weight pink linen. It is the lovely dusky pink colour that I am extremely partial to right now. I'd no idea if women of my class (middling classed wife of a shop owner!) would wear pink or linen. I think that possibly no-one over the lower class actually wore linen outer-wear, and especially not in the open fronted robe style. Pink was probably less inaccurate than the fabric. But for now, linen seemed nice and authentic, and I wasn't that keen on forking out for 7 metres on a $50/m silk and upwards, on a whim. What if I made an absolute stuff up of it?!<br />
<br />
I also bought coarse pink cotton thread as the local Big Box fabric store had no linen.<br />
<br />
I started with the mock-up. As before, I took the size 34 and added 4cm to the length of the bodice front and back. There was two pages, and seven steps and relevant full-colour photos to help with this process. As I don't know exactly what they ought to fit like at this stage, in terms of creating the correct posture, it is still somewhat trial and error as I have never actually worn a true 18th century costume!<br />
<br />
Cutting and pleating the back panels was easy and extremely rewarding. I had never actually hand-sewn before, and it was very interesting to read that historically there wasn't the stigma of having to hide the stitches from the outside. The stitching became something of a feature and a place to show off your abilities (or that of your seamstress anyway!). I loved the pleating template that they included, as it made it so easy to get the accurate width and curve to the pleats.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSTtiYBCsSVnl9pAr9Z3slzsUUaLK4NLNM6YNyxfRK_CKq5mh2EiZMi2BuhYtnos-_VAppXtlg68QaDj9c9x7fM5KvT3EyoK6g5piADuMeLotcyWcCfZWc_gPKzLPO5N9BlOdOVDNeBQ/s1600/IMG_7905.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSTtiYBCsSVnl9pAr9Z3slzsUUaLK4NLNM6YNyxfRK_CKq5mh2EiZMi2BuhYtnos-_VAppXtlg68QaDj9c9x7fM5KvT3EyoK6g5piADuMeLotcyWcCfZWc_gPKzLPO5N9BlOdOVDNeBQ/s400/IMG_7905.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside waist seam</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The pattern uses the technique of sewing the lining to finished pieces and then to each other, rather than completing the entire outside fabric and the entire lining and then sewing them together. This is new to me, but makes it possibly to ensure all the pieces are lined up and the correct size with no horrible realisation when inserting the lining that you have cut it in the wrong size!<br />
<br />
Neck facing were something of a tricky step, and it seems common to have a slightly un-symmetrical back neck facing on many original gowns. This makes me feel better! I still tried my best to have corners matching but didn't quite make the mark in many places.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMo7cQaHxoAIqk-teD1zpWVxN6Dal-OgCJtlatsccaUeSbp_Oa5Mfk1lpBcCoM-6-FHATqOutpIBAQhr8nqE0totwvNZhN86PG6kbINMzOkZvNCca8_ILvxy_GS8SnugKCFfbo2zm5hQ/s1600/IMG_7904.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMo7cQaHxoAIqk-teD1zpWVxN6Dal-OgCJtlatsccaUeSbp_Oa5Mfk1lpBcCoM-6-FHATqOutpIBAQhr8nqE0totwvNZhN86PG6kbINMzOkZvNCca8_ILvxy_GS8SnugKCFfbo2zm5hQ/s400/IMG_7904.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back neck facing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The stomacher was a slight failure, as for some strange reason I omitted to lengthen it as I had the bodice pieces. The pattern also calls for it to be un-boned, which is all well and good when pinned to one's stays. However I was completely new to this and the idea of pinning oneself into ones clothing was terrifying!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVqNuv5V7E_IxQpelQAzQ0cyTEChSLw7jwiVnW2EY4UQ0eX9rYU17oMXJEdDWeG82Rrelh3ZgIJC9G3TDsYBeVuE-7L-BNytbWZD7L4Ad_0o18j25DjPohnnNS6Y9imY3BfHRgo8UmOA/s1600/IMG_7907.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVqNuv5V7E_IxQpelQAzQ0cyTEChSLw7jwiVnW2EY4UQ0eX9rYU17oMXJEdDWeG82Rrelh3ZgIJC9G3TDsYBeVuE-7L-BNytbWZD7L4Ad_0o18j25DjPohnnNS6Y9imY3BfHRgo8UmOA/s400/IMG_7907.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unboned, wrinkly stomacher in floral linen</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
In the end, I tried on the gown and marked the edges of the robings, and then sewed hooks and eyes to hold the stomacher inside the gown. This I will definitely change at a later date, but for now it felt a little less scary. I also sewed the robbing completely down the front opening. This is probably going to be a problem if I ever wear the dress, as it means the robbing need to be folded back open if pinning and then folded back over the pins. However I think some gowns had robings sewn to them, so maybe it's not entirely inaccurate!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkrQDLcdB3EToBDqYkqvDhfP5SrbrSZBx4ozG17LOt3qfABMR4zlin1NfD4-2xh3dFicRnYSGKwhwfbYmBZgnBCEYAkDeeKhC-NxSKEOmCZn7AIVxbm6ZybQWBpOOCE0iNVrpub2CrRA/s1600/IMG_7906.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkrQDLcdB3EToBDqYkqvDhfP5SrbrSZBx4ozG17LOt3qfABMR4zlin1NfD4-2xh3dFicRnYSGKwhwfbYmBZgnBCEYAkDeeKhC-NxSKEOmCZn7AIVxbm6ZybQWBpOOCE0iNVrpub2CrRA/s400/IMG_7906.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hooks and eyes for stomacher</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
To get the correct silhouette I needed a bumroll. Either that or panniers, but that seemed much more casual and easy. A couple of attempts later, below is the resulting silhouette. It was made of a banana-shaped tube of some left-over fabric, lots of poly-fill from some old cushions, and two pieces of cotton tape. Bob's your uncle.<br />
<br />
Finally I made the petticoat in the same fabric, knife pleating to the suggested width of 1" each. I made a self band to tie front and back with the traditional pocket openings of 10" on each side. At this point I think I decided that I was just going to interchange imperial and metric measurements and this is what you get!<br />
<br />
Below are the dummy photos. Unfortunately the dressmakers dummy is too large for the dress dimensions, so I will later post a photo shoot by my lovely daughter, wearing it myself.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKaNGCdtgp2l4d8q5V3HAAtUpfo2oPwKkGZgbiocAz2plb4zTf2fXKq7Bhh7-wU7qEtWnyGfnf2A8wo1eslpoZc6bZnOUKliJLtZ8mLEbRX-4MliiwLvhpEY19MqKjB-QVMFGrDtp3FA/s1600/IMG_0783.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKaNGCdtgp2l4d8q5V3HAAtUpfo2oPwKkGZgbiocAz2plb4zTf2fXKq7Bhh7-wU7qEtWnyGfnf2A8wo1eslpoZc6bZnOUKliJLtZ8mLEbRX-4MliiwLvhpEY19MqKjB-QVMFGrDtp3FA/s320/IMG_0783.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJjdCyEeSBmg-nmAjCCcL3SKnqBdyKeHg-rM0OaLCcvnN4Dune-1zOPmDmKFv3OuMMSlX45dBe_wt3iNudBtjyU41c7RafoJjabweB-R5Rag4CRcnGPOYtbp4WCe_zRnzbix7N48TYfg/s1600/IMG_0784.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJjdCyEeSBmg-nmAjCCcL3SKnqBdyKeHg-rM0OaLCcvnN4Dune-1zOPmDmKFv3OuMMSlX45dBe_wt3iNudBtjyU41c7RafoJjabweB-R5Rag4CRcnGPOYtbp4WCe_zRnzbix7N48TYfg/s320/IMG_0784.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRW8F8jbhGsFcZaKn13eKOT1PyJ1ND5NT3KSy6m98S0eXeS4Ye4cGq-NUJ4RNiRRuz3hlSgqZvxq-jNqIIEBjttevIf1Izts3RIH6d6vJV94p12RWBEx-AVXr_D4dH_PdBG1KBWbHccw/s1600/IMG_0785.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRW8F8jbhGsFcZaKn13eKOT1PyJ1ND5NT3KSy6m98S0eXeS4Ye4cGq-NUJ4RNiRRuz3hlSgqZvxq-jNqIIEBjttevIf1Izts3RIH6d6vJV94p12RWBEx-AVXr_D4dH_PdBG1KBWbHccw/s400/IMG_0785.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDR5AiHqQ1JpEshhAOUmYQ1GAQwZN4C5KHMdyeohs94hOJEaoU2bzKT1hvTsX3pgK3JkZVVieeTUusKAj_ATSAxyp6aNyorAw4ON6VgWq0AeXUkwSwxdWzqFKGHOovhpn8D_it2T-zxQ/s1600/IMG_0786.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDR5AiHqQ1JpEshhAOUmYQ1GAQwZN4C5KHMdyeohs94hOJEaoU2bzKT1hvTsX3pgK3JkZVVieeTUusKAj_ATSAxyp6aNyorAw4ON6VgWq0AeXUkwSwxdWzqFKGHOovhpn8D_it2T-zxQ/s320/IMG_0786.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Worn over my first unsuccessful shift attempt.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAPMsvddg3veGZ3IXl9iWmhgofUXQ6LDasm-Jcxz5J7rW_BD2OmxxK_BtEe-4mssfw99MM02sbQPnvY_u1CLOkqJIoq32R7MQJ0QKZatYjqWa3Je1z1V9GB6gOQb10P7CY4PLY3ZqFmw/s1600/IMG_0787.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAPMsvddg3veGZ3IXl9iWmhgofUXQ6LDasm-Jcxz5J7rW_BD2OmxxK_BtEe-4mssfw99MM02sbQPnvY_u1CLOkqJIoq32R7MQJ0QKZatYjqWa3Je1z1V9GB6gOQb10P7CY4PLY3ZqFmw/s320/IMG_0787.jpg" width="240" /></a><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1NhyywAagwJnC7Hll3UPh3d6iDun1igXWfL3P3U3mqxkYSzhV2F2szif0lXV7BmTIb7e27k0hpraPSjIuWJ7kRU6yy7IG4bn7pOYJv95fq6qOfvFzvSPTCZdTm_JepVDvR0E5sAHVSQ/s1600/IMG_0789.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1NhyywAagwJnC7Hll3UPh3d6iDun1igXWfL3P3U3mqxkYSzhV2F2szif0lXV7BmTIb7e27k0hpraPSjIuWJ7kRU6yy7IG4bn7pOYJv95fq6qOfvFzvSPTCZdTm_JepVDvR0E5sAHVSQ/s320/IMG_0789.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzWBae0ExeZvmF6jCAdHZp86iEQpS8ySuU-_WBlzana6D7-BaOrTbBp-OkUA-k5hSkZL4t6TWHUEJKcRybM_TqlMhaCeToaKFu5l42OaR_aYLc_5wXBGn5H6_4TNDsIHQCNMSfElSunw/s1600/IMG_0790.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzWBae0ExeZvmF6jCAdHZp86iEQpS8ySuU-_WBlzana6D7-BaOrTbBp-OkUA-k5hSkZL4t6TWHUEJKcRybM_TqlMhaCeToaKFu5l42OaR_aYLc_5wXBGn5H6_4TNDsIHQCNMSfElSunw/s400/IMG_0790.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b><i>Just out of interest</i></b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Pattern plus shipping: NZ$60.00</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Linen fabric: 7m @ $13/m$91.00</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Linen lining: .5m @ $30/m$15.00</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Cotton thread: $4.00</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b>TOTAL: NZ$170.00</b></div>
Eloise Faithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16298695662174061689noreply@blogger.com0Wellington, New Zealand-41.2864603 174.77623600000004-41.6685158 174.13078900000005 -40.9044048 175.42168300000003tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4839190847338641280.post-44154255252048365492017-04-28T21:31:00.001-07:002018-02-16T21:27:52.800-08:00The First Set of StaysIt was time to take a deep breath and hold it for a very long time. Both while making the stays as well as while wearing them, I had no doubt.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju1gd98lF8Xvc2YT0jdh8G2w8ADANx9pvhRJXbeCJbXHB6UTOI4_G3y5KcCMGmlkMjTLiT7BQtqe2uj_PwSNE0lbYX8Bb391bcfgAXo3HEoOZUShJ-bpjLCLJUtafJtVZlszwXHsnFcw/s1600/stays.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju1gd98lF8Xvc2YT0jdh8G2w8ADANx9pvhRJXbeCJbXHB6UTOI4_G3y5KcCMGmlkMjTLiT7BQtqe2uj_PwSNE0lbYX8Bb391bcfgAXo3HEoOZUShJ-bpjLCLJUtafJtVZlszwXHsnFcw/s320/stays.jpg" width="259" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Image from Pinterest</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The pattern I used was JP Ryan's 18th century Strapless Backlacing Stays pattern (see my pattern review page). This was the first time I had read the term "Mock up", and it was an unknown to me. How much do you make up? How much detail do you go to? Isn't that insane - to almost completely make up something only to pull it apart again??<br />
<br />
One helpful blogger told me that you basically make it all up in two layers so that you can put in maybe half of the boning, use an old eyelet strip to lace it up, and then repeat. Numerous times.<br />
<br />
I think I only made one mockup, added 4cm to the length at the point at which it told me to lengthen/shorten as I have a long body, and cut it out using the size 8 and making no adjustments to the bust or waist. I tend to also have a narrower waist as well as bust to the norm so I should have learned to make mock-ups and adjust patterns years ago. However stays are so personal to the individual that all that correct fitting is heightened.<br />
<br />
I decided to machine sew the stays as much as possible, as the fabrics weren't strictly accurate and I was also not quite sure they would work out! There is no way I wanted to waste 40 hours of my life for something I was going to throw out.<br />
<br />
After the mock-up, I cut out the pattern using a thick cotton left over from some blinds I'd made, cotton duck left over from slip covers I'd made, and the aforementioned 'unneeded' cotton sheet. I stitched together the self and interlining fabrics, then sewed them together as one, as with the lining. Once pressed, they looked quite smart and well-behaved.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr7eKaTpPhrZsKe_frOUnupf16Wu-pHwHZ-eKI9VaUMGJiYPqTyMww93U2O4LaE9umMGhR0X5k0PSa3PIpEzac7-7UqaJnVeYsXffUXp3e_LH6Vdg0ZajsZM7L4u1_1UxUyqMRSQtCQw/s1600/1pattern+pieces.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr7eKaTpPhrZsKe_frOUnupf16Wu-pHwHZ-eKI9VaUMGJiYPqTyMww93U2O4LaE9umMGhR0X5k0PSa3PIpEzac7-7UqaJnVeYsXffUXp3e_LH6Vdg0ZajsZM7L4u1_1UxUyqMRSQtCQw/s320/1pattern+pieces.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlJDzYRRg2Ol_w_qdbATrhKXdNvkPnJmB-j_ppqgoAvh25onKmw2LOD3NbcHQONadrnzv1KMCrjhvbamu0Y9Qn_QpI4vekZleJPOsbfG7ABhE_gpcMcgm-3myujvhecGDVvYM1CgLfWw/s1600/2piecescut.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlJDzYRRg2Ol_w_qdbATrhKXdNvkPnJmB-j_ppqgoAvh25onKmw2LOD3NbcHQONadrnzv1KMCrjhvbamu0Y9Qn_QpI4vekZleJPOsbfG7ABhE_gpcMcgm-3myujvhecGDVvYM1CgLfWw/s320/2piecescut.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL7hM8ye01NyaMdN2nEDgG79vWllLY4A6GwC3bmBAquTp3YbId-O7hlZ67AIL-qwCTbHf5pYy7hYJO3P03x-2mxxWMGgdiAQywMmfQUDlgjdDkWEN8gwrom210yeKIihW3oEE8ufwvdg/s1600/3stitched.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL7hM8ye01NyaMdN2nEDgG79vWllLY4A6GwC3bmBAquTp3YbId-O7hlZ67AIL-qwCTbHf5pYy7hYJO3P03x-2mxxWMGgdiAQywMmfQUDlgjdDkWEN8gwrom210yeKIihW3oEE8ufwvdg/s320/3stitched.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFELK5LDNpZDza_oT3NDZMfDM34d2HHl8-GQZqE9NO_5owKkBIQWGAG_rLnYfAhLzGa5kOAOORcIcoScMwVluIn0JlM8lGWEY5GGJlSjA8_MP5g7rd7hqqlCehgAd9lXvcextw6BoW1Q/s1600/4sewnup.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFELK5LDNpZDza_oT3NDZMfDM34d2HHl8-GQZqE9NO_5owKkBIQWGAG_rLnYfAhLzGa5kOAOORcIcoScMwVluIn0JlM8lGWEY5GGJlSjA8_MP5g7rd7hqqlCehgAd9lXvcextw6BoW1Q/s320/4sewnup.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0SQ1rqhfDFocwAxIhNQ4ob3igqhbon60t1ggngue94ypHct6VKtx1sag5yieKk1c0Rvp0OYAqCdUVSFRlEbT-GVy_hN-o-j2rgW9OJIDGdpI8Egqxa296okYG3rfU0t8vVdw0e9lBkA/s1600/5pressed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0SQ1rqhfDFocwAxIhNQ4ob3igqhbon60t1ggngue94ypHct6VKtx1sag5yieKk1c0Rvp0OYAqCdUVSFRlEbT-GVy_hN-o-j2rgW9OJIDGdpI8Egqxa296okYG3rfU0t8vVdw0e9lBkA/s400/5pressed.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIlQudGpCpJ-aTUTcwelRu6-F2SUaGXVT8Wg_K7sdIz7Oc-Eqo3yqaQHvRW9nIkapqFryhcpv99oWySAjgufKf7eYTxPRjz3ldyitCh_TC0Fu-gYBhc_8oOICs99nwlIf0iWxRg-TvMw/s1600/5pressedtogether.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIlQudGpCpJ-aTUTcwelRu6-F2SUaGXVT8Wg_K7sdIz7Oc-Eqo3yqaQHvRW9nIkapqFryhcpv99oWySAjgufKf7eYTxPRjz3ldyitCh_TC0Fu-gYBhc_8oOICs99nwlIf0iWxRg-TvMw/s320/5pressedtogether.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Now it was time to begin sewing the boning channels. These are sewn through the two layers of self and interfacing, including the seam allowances. I was intending to use zip-ties/cable-ties for the boning, so I used one as a guide to mark the width of one or two channels in pencil. I took note of where the machine foot was placed when sewing these and from then on was able to sew the boning without marking, simply using the machine foot as a marker. This works easily with fully boned stays as the boning is all parallel to one side seam, and you just stop when you run out of room for a full boning channel, and begin on the next panel.<br />
<br />
When I got to the back centre edges, I folded the seam allowance at the marked place, so that the boning continued over the seam allowances nice and neatly, leaving room for two bones in the last channel. The pattern called for metal bones at the seam edge of each panel, however I didn't have access to these so I made each one slightly wider and inserted two zip-ties instead.<br />
<br />
Yes, this does reduce the size of the stays, but hopefully the mock-up has taken this into account and the stays are slightly too large! Also, by making sure there is plenty of ease at the lacing edge, the stays can be loosened if too tight and then tightened again once they stretch and give with wear.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiseeiQqIdW0vkCLLoX0LYqFnNDSGuSejxh2Od1iOuecSUTdimnBntBdyHnnzV2MnLKuFYn-ObygAtIpnn6FwOBDk5pKAZdE0wF9jYcgYLSk7BysT7d_DTPGfsycJF0ouuUW4pvC4HUPQ/s1600/6boningchan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiseeiQqIdW0vkCLLoX0LYqFnNDSGuSejxh2Od1iOuecSUTdimnBntBdyHnnzV2MnLKuFYn-ObygAtIpnn6FwOBDk5pKAZdE0wF9jYcgYLSk7BysT7d_DTPGfsycJF0ouuUW4pvC4HUPQ/s320/6boningchan.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoTaE-DA9xeOb0Fm54NI0QxwlvmHi30smueYmicwNtPaynp0rEox8uN89qjDv0qHEYIqE-8Mzm6qR5vNo_ARu6HTDPInwls0kqoqHJKlDF_JgP_WckoUB3570j-ERGCnyuPCo93eKq-Q/s1600/6boningchannels.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoTaE-DA9xeOb0Fm54NI0QxwlvmHi30smueYmicwNtPaynp0rEox8uN89qjDv0qHEYIqE-8Mzm6qR5vNo_ARu6HTDPInwls0kqoqHJKlDF_JgP_WckoUB3570j-ERGCnyuPCo93eKq-Q/s320/6boningchannels.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVG03h9-jrd6CZDmaXfwX5slhfxoY0J88Ag6FrENkW5tfxbwVkLbeOTK74Xly2Ts3DRDaPiLnDlhuif6CshjnUoRXBLALSmsr6lSCQ1PJge7-y7RBSL8_8CSR_TItOmxxamLuNVklSLQ/s1600/6boningchannelsall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVG03h9-jrd6CZDmaXfwX5slhfxoY0J88Ag6FrENkW5tfxbwVkLbeOTK74Xly2Ts3DRDaPiLnDlhuif6CshjnUoRXBLALSmsr6lSCQ1PJge7-y7RBSL8_8CSR_TItOmxxamLuNVklSLQ/s640/6boningchannelsall.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
And now it was time to insert the boning. This was lots of fun, made quite a mess, and worked very well with the zip-ties. I extended them into all the tabs as the pattern stated, stopping where they would extend into the seam allowance.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOT6LYsl4F52Dw_6bh7chvKKH9nB2EtGfFOC4yf9dmh6A6anEuWe8qQWZ3tgkeLPxz9DPUmC97z4y6y5RuintkvOGeewjZQbOptLwYv_Bh6FE54QQ8ZNN-hf1z8_5Lup12CL8ciSpO9A/s400/7bonesin.jpg" width="300" /></div>
Now it was time to get onto the binding. I have heard horror stories about binding stays, especially the tabs. I found a good website on <a href="http://yourwardrobeunlockd.com/freebies/356-perfect-binding-part-1-by-cathy-hay" target="_blank">Yourwardrobeunlocked</a> that gave some great ideas, some far more advanced than I was going to attempt, but very useful.<br />
<br />
However, I didn't find this until I had finished the tabs! For some reason I thought that it would be easier to use wider binding, so bought ready-made binding in the wider size. I feel better knowing that that was part of the reason it was so difficult, but to be quite honest it wasn't too torturous.<br />
<br />
In my naivety I didn't realise that I could sew the outside of the binding on by machine, saving myself a lot of trouble. I pinned the binding around the stays, then slipstitched them on by hand. Not neat, not smart, but serviceable. Actually, probably not serviceable either by hey, I wasn't planning on wearing them every day or anything!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyzNJaqvnXSBpaG3HAUpwsOEK-Ub67vZUGrUYUnpARhrvzFCoBRBQ7fMs1DLL44jftHVGOiUdLVXRXusJDs-_iLvNeWwKf-C3jodAcHzwXSzBQ2Hmtc4A-OpqoTPlU4mdUhlov_Qgvdg/s1600/8pintabs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyzNJaqvnXSBpaG3HAUpwsOEK-Ub67vZUGrUYUnpARhrvzFCoBRBQ7fMs1DLL44jftHVGOiUdLVXRXusJDs-_iLvNeWwKf-C3jodAcHzwXSzBQ2Hmtc4A-OpqoTPlU4mdUhlov_Qgvdg/s320/8pintabs.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUgDjl2rmJnZ83_xXM9vFudz-j_fBE1pRwH3b3epCcuDtvrSExq1WBGuNGBUOqiaArNhC0PODi8fe94CfWaGVX4DOdBWLAeUO55QP3CO7n8HUybumBNgeqT3cSyKmuBfIRvYq0MTr-bQ/s1600/9sewntop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUgDjl2rmJnZ83_xXM9vFudz-j_fBE1pRwH3b3epCcuDtvrSExq1WBGuNGBUOqiaArNhC0PODi8fe94CfWaGVX4DOdBWLAeUO55QP3CO7n8HUybumBNgeqT3cSyKmuBfIRvYq0MTr-bQ/s320/9sewntop.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh4EqrkA2em_p88FGIJhKedfMXJrkh0Z3d2bualyl8X2ebU_MfVymFr51Jxexai0tOLezAfBcV9M2DVjRrOawaFRrWn2CqoJkCgUexhZCVNdeJh3pBVlJafDQTgVZPrLwLevzoe-zkiw/s1600/9sewntabsagain.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh4EqrkA2em_p88FGIJhKedfMXJrkh0Z3d2bualyl8X2ebU_MfVymFr51Jxexai0tOLezAfBcV9M2DVjRrOawaFRrWn2CqoJkCgUexhZCVNdeJh3pBVlJafDQTgVZPrLwLevzoe-zkiw/s320/9sewntabsagain.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_NqZx6Y-Di8YVFB2L4azr0i5WYkenmhbTxGjvfrMc_HPYf0dfgz_lOqrDAHLReUCgsZ6w3ctZtSCKRP7zG7PPKeshgeFdFKss11UY2kZ4jBwD_-i9ga06nFT4qQ7-LwzEBYrmVwtr0Q/s1600/10lininng.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_NqZx6Y-Di8YVFB2L4azr0i5WYkenmhbTxGjvfrMc_HPYf0dfgz_lOqrDAHLReUCgsZ6w3ctZtSCKRP7zG7PPKeshgeFdFKss11UY2kZ4jBwD_-i9ga06nFT4qQ7-LwzEBYrmVwtr0Q/s320/10lininng.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The final stage was the eyelets. With the same mentality as that I had with the sewing, I decided to use metal eyelets instead of working by hand. I found them in white at the local fabric store, as well as a little tool to insert them. The tool is terrible and leaves the edges all ragged. It ruins the ribbon I laced it with, so I decided to either a)become more authentic and make them by hand next time or b)not be so cheap and go out and spend $50 on a better tool.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I inserted the eyelets in the recommended spiral style, not entirely evenly! Oh well, I tell myself it's my practice set of stays. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaGWDlucRBz32wrNQJxAsR9t7yYTxxM4_n6npURN2iLYW5ZjdMg8jBD6hP8neEKOJIrAnAr9oQUa0VoZkJYpRBegKK-awwP6RdPzU4h_CZ6cRo9ZcVnVYbGEVPwa2ChPogPiIs3J7j1g/s1600/12eyelets.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaGWDlucRBz32wrNQJxAsR9t7yYTxxM4_n6npURN2iLYW5ZjdMg8jBD6hP8neEKOJIrAnAr9oQUa0VoZkJYpRBegKK-awwP6RdPzU4h_CZ6cRo9ZcVnVYbGEVPwa2ChPogPiIs3J7j1g/s320/12eyelets.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Finally the stays were finished! </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I thought I had been clever by buying a mannequin before starting on this project. Wouldn't it just make all the work easier! I could simply make the dummy my own dimensions and pin to my heart's content. Of course, the dimensions are all well and good, but they don't actually go small enough for me in the waist and bust, and as we all know (now), corsets and stays are to create a specific shape that a solid dressmakers dummy won't conform to! So a bolster pillow did for the photos. I promise I will get some of it on myself once I get around to it.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm2JDXvGxCGD9B1rho8E4f7tihFylRRHcnDVX-oySIwgUeVcXmmlV5kwnfuaO0vHJZXRRivbGuTmxttevhPC3LKE3ieJsYr5QPqbTCqvHuJhE4IUlpycPCntc-DK5R0gVJUdnE0-wCYw/s1600/floral+shift+front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm2JDXvGxCGD9B1rho8E4f7tihFylRRHcnDVX-oySIwgUeVcXmmlV5kwnfuaO0vHJZXRRivbGuTmxttevhPC3LKE3ieJsYr5QPqbTCqvHuJhE4IUlpycPCntc-DK5R0gVJUdnE0-wCYw/s320/floral+shift+front.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHkajgFJ1ICHV8EKZoLR1RCjOUo9JJlt5D7bQ1GENFsopsZbyruCDKbduSvNn97_oTdz8PVKtYEGCvmtqn5xgO-DWepXJDpa27amCv00Al_AFKQfVJi49ynpMX74W8WSj1jQ3HYF4Ltw/s1600/floral+shift+back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHkajgFJ1ICHV8EKZoLR1RCjOUo9JJlt5D7bQ1GENFsopsZbyruCDKbduSvNn97_oTdz8PVKtYEGCvmtqn5xgO-DWepXJDpa27amCv00Al_AFKQfVJi49ynpMX74W8WSj1jQ3HYF4Ltw/s320/floral+shift+back.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<i><b>Just for interest's sake:</b></i></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Fabric: Left-over cotton curtaining 50cm: $0</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Left-over cotton duck interlining 50cm: $0</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Cotton sheet 50cm: $0</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Eyelets x24 $5</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Poly thread: $0</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Bias binding: $3</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Poly ribbon 2m: $2</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Zip-ties 40cm x100 (not sure how many I used): $20</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
TOTAL: NZ$30</div>
Eloise Faithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16298695662174061689noreply@blogger.com0Wellington, New Zealand-41.2864603 174.77623600000004-41.6685158 174.13078900000005 -40.9044048 175.42168300000003tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4839190847338641280.post-16309262978404014822017-04-28T05:41:00.001-07:002018-02-16T21:37:32.571-08:00Starting at the Beginning: A ShiftI'm going to pretend that the first practice shift didn't happen. It was such a disaster, I'm going to pretend that I started at the second, and more successful one and forget all the horrors of learning how to set a gusset. You may laugh now, I certainly do, but a gusset was a bad word for a few hours as I figured it out.<br />
<br />
As I got to in my last post, I had decided to begin with an 18th century costume. Complete from skin to cloak, or thereabouts. And in that order of course.<br />
<br />
Following this sensible decision, I went ahead and found the nicest gown pattern I could to order online. After a few seconds I realised I wasn't making any robe until I had made a set of stays so I would fit this gown...oh my goodness...NO WAY. There was no way I could possibly start my self-taught sewing lessons with stays.<br />
<br />
Unfortunately I wasn't kidding. Not even to myself. Stays it would have to be. So I went ahead with my online order, including a nice simple set of stays. (I am kidding, what is simple about stays to a novice dressmaker?)<br />
<br />
On this note, I would like to rate the patterns I bought at some stage. As any new dressmaker knows, there is a vast difference between the quality of patterns, and unfortunately with all the amazing information in the world available online, I could not find a good, reliable pattern rating system that I could understand. It was going to have to be trial and error. Plenty of error, no doubt. But trial it would be.<br />
<br />
I ended up on <a href="http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/patterns.aspx" target="_blank">Burnley & Trowbridge Co.</a> which looked like it had a good selection and ordered the <a href="http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/larkinandsmithenglishgownc1760-1770spattern.aspx" target="_blank">Larkin & Smith English Gown 1760-1770</a> which was about NZ$40 and the <a href="http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/jpryanstayspattern.aspx" target="_blank">JP Ryan Stays</a> pattern for about NZ$25.<br />
<br />
While I waited for these to arrive from their countries on the other side of the world, I did some more study and decided the first thing to make was actually the shift, found a good pattern on a site online which wasn't going to cost me this week's grocery money, and headed out to the local fabric store. (In actual fact, there is a short spell in the middle of that sentence that involves cutting up an old bedsheet - that I later discovered wasn't actually actually old nor unneeded - and some hand sewing, but we are going to ignore that).<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQSGgt8onLpUzsWEVFlSf8esMEDy1OUygJyLUqxqVpOlU-RupKyz-E-NyGsOgeEfoP5x5EFHmehusRmxqIaj3EUrqSfjWA2_xesCZmJHWqUc5ZyhTTsPfpNjGLvvG_dYjD6V4reqzj2w/s1600/shift_Fotor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQSGgt8onLpUzsWEVFlSf8esMEDy1OUygJyLUqxqVpOlU-RupKyz-E-NyGsOgeEfoP5x5EFHmehusRmxqIaj3EUrqSfjWA2_xesCZmJHWqUc5ZyhTTsPfpNjGLvvG_dYjD6V4reqzj2w/s400/shift_Fotor.jpg" width="138" /></a></div>
<i>This pattern was my inspiration from Terry Dresbach's website. Unfortunately her site is not up at present while working on season 3 of Outlander, for me to link to.</i><br />
<br />
When I say THE local fabric store, I mean the one and only. These days in NZ there is practically no option outside of the main centres besides good old Spotlight. But at least they had white linen. According to everything I read, if I was going to be English, I was going to wear linen. And it must be white. At NZ$30 per metre I decided I was going to follow the 18th century principles of fabric economy, and started hacking into that pristine white fabric. I also had to get cotton thread as they don't sell linen thread.<br />
<br />
The pattern I used was from a website which I believe is Marquise. The <a href="http://www.marquise.de/en/1700/howto/frauen/18chemise.shtml" target="_blank">pattern and instructions</a> were excellent, and there were links to great little pictures and diagrams. As fabric these days comes in 150cm widths, I decided to cut across-wise and sew a shoulder seam. I cut it on the small side, my frame not being particularly wide, if somewhat tall. I learned to set an underarm gusset, flat-fell the seams, create shape using gores, and make self-facings and self-casing. I got the impression that the general length for this period was mid-calf, the sleeves 3/4 length, and they didn't seem to have draw-cords in either wrist or neck. I preferred a short split at the centre front, so went ahead with a drawcord anyway, as well as with the sleeves. Later, once I had made the gown, I realised that what had at first seemed like a very low neckline in the shift was in fact not even low enough for the common neckline of an 18th century gown. The next one I make will be even deeper and I'll leave out the drawcord. For this one, I removed the wrist drawcords after finishing as they were pretty pointless. As for techniques, I did a mix of machine and hand sewing, making sure that all the flat-felling was done in as even stitches as I could.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLwy-VeFMJ70IKmE3DhatDAfq5baMXLaMVgYzGhv10adPUf_4JQlcTeXnJiTJa9hp_Dkf9VJnox4LXUrAnp_UTjucu0lZocqUmhfYgSZIEn0Uy_aPGFdMFa9eFbUK2NCGmAvg-j1ShZQ/s1600/IMG_4167.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLwy-VeFMJ70IKmE3DhatDAfq5baMXLaMVgYzGhv10adPUf_4JQlcTeXnJiTJa9hp_Dkf9VJnox4LXUrAnp_UTjucu0lZocqUmhfYgSZIEn0Uy_aPGFdMFa9eFbUK2NCGmAvg-j1ShZQ/s320/IMG_4167.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcBAg2VAlGORYQc1SJwsexClcunUuYYx2063gwFeXx1BwhYDY0AGqyDSq6Xmqc7gg_YQfKAN61VbDIS1TdIM_w8Idd7GDmvtl91pW7QxZd6hA-P5VlPqnAff_euABYJhbLVrbugw1ihA/s1600/IMG_4169.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcBAg2VAlGORYQc1SJwsexClcunUuYYx2063gwFeXx1BwhYDY0AGqyDSq6Xmqc7gg_YQfKAN61VbDIS1TdIM_w8Idd7GDmvtl91pW7QxZd6hA-P5VlPqnAff_euABYJhbLVrbugw1ihA/s320/IMG_4169.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg79JSPpBYvfk5AileW5Fw4m77xZb5SLuj_WSsRyqMOiaPIXjX8sAbyKH2Dk4eFvnkFHkFj8Z4WVBreRX9ijuIWNNDADCisPg_e9KEa5r6n86Mq_0nYPgLPEekU1IJsEWfIKzrMAx5wkw/s1600/IMG_4171.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg79JSPpBYvfk5AileW5Fw4m77xZb5SLuj_WSsRyqMOiaPIXjX8sAbyKH2Dk4eFvnkFHkFj8Z4WVBreRX9ijuIWNNDADCisPg_e9KEa5r6n86Mq_0nYPgLPEekU1IJsEWfIKzrMAx5wkw/s320/IMG_4171.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYTaHmyEX6WqRFIRuyuu7TsFH9YfAYwPblaKSUMqo0OIV5MlAoZVwEulhKSr4LNopCKf9vIhxNHjsAHexldRmKiLcsHHj7BPDY7mrXIPtks0LnLD9QkM1TDItbjEUPgUVdRPIhbjX17A/s1600/IMG_4165.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYTaHmyEX6WqRFIRuyuu7TsFH9YfAYwPblaKSUMqo0OIV5MlAoZVwEulhKSr4LNopCKf9vIhxNHjsAHexldRmKiLcsHHj7BPDY7mrXIPtks0LnLD9QkM1TDItbjEUPgUVdRPIhbjX17A/s320/IMG_4165.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
I found the shift so comfortable to wear when trying it on, I decided to sleep in it. It's great to wear in both summer and winter I have discovered! For many reasons, but as this is no place for graphic descriptions, I will leave it at that.<br />
<br />
<i><b>Just for interests' sake:</b></i><br />
Cost of Shift<br />
Pattern: $0<br />
2m medium weight linen $30/m: $60<br />
Cotton thread: $5<br />
Ribbon: $1<br />
TOTAL: $66<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvaJs2wKj2FJhXslmwmlbaIVh9_i9fgPD5CB5t96Gspn0ZOZDbl9xMnGx3C-pFk-0IEHpJb22s4pCaK80pMuAtCKRgdjLUeNBIdTqtC-334LOQ3BOUZf9cunG27Rs60OQAUPXMyDSSRg/s1600/IMG_0777.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvaJs2wKj2FJhXslmwmlbaIVh9_i9fgPD5CB5t96Gspn0ZOZDbl9xMnGx3C-pFk-0IEHpJb22s4pCaK80pMuAtCKRgdjLUeNBIdTqtC-334LOQ3BOUZf9cunG27Rs60OQAUPXMyDSSRg/s640/IMG_0777.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />Eloise Faithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16298695662174061689noreply@blogger.com0Wellington, New Zealand-41.2864603 174.77623600000004-41.6685158 174.13078900000005 -40.9044048 175.42168300000003tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4839190847338641280.post-40603367239879324642017-04-28T04:38:00.001-07:002018-02-16T21:21:51.248-08:00The Inspiration: In the Garden of VersaillesIt all started in 2009 when our business sponsored a show at the St James Theatre in Wellington. They needed some classical water fountains to help transform the concourse into the Gardens of Versailles, where their show would take place:<br />
<br />
The Affaire of the Diamond Necklace<br />
<br />
My husband brought home two complimentary tickets, telling me that it was 'recommended' that we go in costume. At first I thought that he was joking: if you know my husband, you'll know he is the last person on earth to don high heels and a frilly bib. But it seemed we would be very bad sports if we didn't.<br />
<br />
We visited Totally Frocked, a wonderful treasure chest of costumes with a passionate staff, who jumped on the bandwagon and found us two perfect costumes. My husband was dressed in white stockings, black breeks, glittery gold jacket and waistcoat over a white shirt with a frilly 'bib' stock, and said high heels. My costume was a pink cotton/linen robe and stomacher in one, complete with gold frills and lace, and panniers. I pulled out my wedding dress for the underskirt, bought a lacy little push-up number and we were going to the ball!<br />
<br />
As Richard's hair was at a horrifying length of glossy red curls, we didn't go down the powdered wig road, nor did he let me anywhere near him with the makeup. As for me, I declined the matted wig on offer at the costume shop, and instead did a little You Tube research, finding a great little clip on how to do an authentic 18th century French 'Do' and had a go at it. Honestly, my head still felt bruised weeks later, but I had a lot of great compliments on it which made the pain all worth it. Well, nearly.<br />
<br />
I have to say, still in my memory as the most embarrassing moment of my life was getting into the car when we were leaving and a commuter passed at that moment. I tried to dodge into the car in time, but the cheerful toot alerted me that they had spied me in my glory and my rosy cheeks were not completely due to the period makeup I had applied!<br />
<br />
The evening was so much fun, with everyone in costume. This was the first costume event we had ever been to, and it was great to meet a bunch of strangers who came from all different walks of life, enjoying the same entertainment. The most fun part of the evening was actually taking a breather outside the St James at midnight in the heart of Wellington's night life, alongside half a dozen others likewise taking a break from the 18th century dancing, and receiving all kinds of responses from the passers by as they jumped from one night club to the next. <br />
<br />
It has taken me eight years to finally get to a point in life where I can basically waste time and money on a hobby that is completely selfish and pointless. I have been enjoying the Outlander series, and was impressed with how lovely the costumes were that Terry Dresbach has created for the actors. Happily getting into the swing of wasting time, I did some research, decided on an era to begin with and dived head first into my newest passion: sewing historical costumes.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEYyxw1UIYYV6mnUjflTRUgVKfrLqNnU_T-5wO-K9FTL94tbzWTFM3aUgGfCOmoncImv9iBzFX4QtwNNIuDtPRAxPBW5N21gy12Ir2lMk99gnwRcgjTGf-GeHyD2TLjKVna-pK23jHpg/s1600/Versailles1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEYyxw1UIYYV6mnUjflTRUgVKfrLqNnU_T-5wO-K9FTL94tbzWTFM3aUgGfCOmoncImv9iBzFX4QtwNNIuDtPRAxPBW5N21gy12Ir2lMk99gnwRcgjTGf-GeHyD2TLjKVna-pK23jHpg/s400/Versailles1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA3LSAe56uG2sqHnWX28hKVqaKRcsGTPMoIzw8yASv1fMCsl-OuyYYV7KpdImClfx_nAOsJT21F1sfvqPElFR3NTkFiY_WN8LzclH_4838k0eRo3U5bJUqpgezCuhVx5AnqbW8bZY3aQ/s1600/Versailles2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA3LSAe56uG2sqHnWX28hKVqaKRcsGTPMoIzw8yASv1fMCsl-OuyYYV7KpdImClfx_nAOsJT21F1sfvqPElFR3NTkFiY_WN8LzclH_4838k0eRo3U5bJUqpgezCuhVx5AnqbW8bZY3aQ/s400/Versailles2.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHq-f_Yoint7mm64Lgt8qe8t1TJNT2r89BVxV9xcJ4x9_EX3kuLIfTQpTJcWn9NXfTd2F1NASt-TaeGVTw3zmr0_lkEZPXJvXvZm9ygmKMyb3QMUfypk8ZEnxAvTRZGlKgWC4dLao5DA/s1600/Versailles3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHq-f_Yoint7mm64Lgt8qe8t1TJNT2r89BVxV9xcJ4x9_EX3kuLIfTQpTJcWn9NXfTd2F1NASt-TaeGVTw3zmr0_lkEZPXJvXvZm9ygmKMyb3QMUfypk8ZEnxAvTRZGlKgWC4dLao5DA/s400/Versailles3.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj91KfMXP5O86mt08VkNw8-UKloVG3PMY5N2ft-TKVBU3T_G8UaIDiaFVFn22zJLcOpaBVN6y_yO1bTbQgoPY9If3FmevhELLV_lyWuScWmxYvOV3Z8B2IcgWkjR_dzb8ytDTdzXbm4XA/s1600/Versailles4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj91KfMXP5O86mt08VkNw8-UKloVG3PMY5N2ft-TKVBU3T_G8UaIDiaFVFn22zJLcOpaBVN6y_yO1bTbQgoPY9If3FmevhELLV_lyWuScWmxYvOV3Z8B2IcgWkjR_dzb8ytDTdzXbm4XA/s640/Versailles4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
Eloise Faithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16298695662174061689noreply@blogger.com0Wellington, New Zealand-41.2864603 174.77623600000004-41.6685158 174.13078900000005 -40.9044048 175.42168300000003